The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
If the “King’s Head” of fact--“such a delicious old inn opposite the
churchyard,” as Dickens wrote of it to Forster--is not so wonderful an old
house as the “Maypole” of fiction and of Cattermole’s picturesque fancy,
we must, at any rate, excuse the artist, who was under the necessity of
working up to the fervid description of it with which the story begins:
“An old building, with more gable-ends than a lazy man would care to count
on a sunny day; huge zig-zag chimneys, out of which it seemed as though
even smoke could not choose but come in more than naturally fantastic
shapes, imparted to it in its tortuous progress; and vast stables, gloomy,
ruinous, and empty. The place was said to have been built in the days
of King Henry the Eighth; and there, was a legend, not only that Queen
Elizabeth had slept there one night while upon a hunting excursion, to
wit, in a certain oak-panelled room with a deep bay-window, but that next
morning, while standing upon a mounting-block before the door, with one
foot in the stirrup, the virgin monarch had then and there boxed and
cuffed an unlucky page for some neglect of duty.”
[Illustration: THE “KING’S HEAD,” CHIGWELL, THE “MAYPOLE” OF _BARNABY
RUDGE_.]
Passing the references to sunken and uneven floors and old diamond-paned
lattices, with another to an “ancient porch, quaintly and grotesquely
carved,” which does not exist, we come to a description of dark red
bricks, grown yellow with age, decayed timbers, and ivy wrapping the
time-worn walls,--all figments of the imagination.
The real “Maypole,” identified with the “King’s Head” at Chigwell, in
Epping Forest, is not the leastest littlest bit like that. The laziest man
on the hottest day could easily count its gables, which number three large
ones[17] and a small would-be-a-gable-if-it-could, that looks as though it
were blighted in its youth and had never grown to maturity. The front of
the house is not of red brick, and never was: the present white plaster
face being a survival of its early years; while the front of the
ground-floor is weather-boarded.
But it is a delightful old house, in a situation equally delightful,
standing opposite the thickly wooded old churchyard of Chigwell, just as
described in the story; the sign--a portrait head of Charles the
First--projecting from an iron bracket, and the upper storeys of the inn
themselves set forward, on old carved oak beams and brackets. There is no
sign of decay or neglect about the “King’s Head.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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