The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
In those times the highway out of Uxbridge, ceasing to be broad and
straight, left the High Street of Uxbridge by a sharp turning to the right
and went in a narrow way called Johnson’s Row to the crossing of the
Colne, which was effected to the north of the present bridge and was made
in two stages by wooden bridges, using the still-surviving island in the
middle of the river as a kind of natural pier or abutment. The road
therefore crossed, in a more or less direct fashion, from immediately in
front of the “Swan and Bottle” inn to where the present flour-mill stands,
cautiously using that very considerable island on the way. The modern
road, with its bridge of seven arches, on the other hand, boldly spans the
river at its widest part, and seeks no help midway. It is all very clear
and palpable to you who stand on the bridge and see how the road across it
swoops round, at a very noticeable angle, to join the older road at the
flour-mill; but Johnson’s Row was demolished 1905-6, to make an approach
to the new railway-station, and the old landmarks are growing obscured. It
was the making of this road in 1785 that changed the fortunes of the
Treaty House. The new highway was cut through its gardens, and the house
itself brought from private life and a dignified seclusion to face the
wayfaring world. What else, then, could it do but become an inn?
[Illustration: THE “TREATY ROOM,” “CROWN AND TREATY,” UXBRIDGE.]
The house, although even now not small, was once much larger. Its least
imposing front is turned to the street and is not improved by the modern
appointments of a public-house. The great feature of the building is the
room on the first floor, called, with what appears to be insufficient
warranty, the “Treaty Room,” the real place of meeting having been,
apparently, the front room, now divided by a partition into two. It was
doubtless its being immeasurably the finest room in the house that led to
the so-called “Treaty Room” being selected for that honour. It is, in
fact, a noble apartment, greatly neglected for these many years past, but
grand in spite of indifference and decay. There are smeary
picture-postcards of it to be purchased in Uxbridge, and it has been
photographed by enthusiastic visitors times without number, generally
without success; for it is a dark interior, and the wood-carving is
shallow and does not yield sufficient pictorial light and shade for the
cameras to do it justice. It should be added, by way of comparative
criticism, that, although this panelling is itself so fine, it does not
for a moment compare with the bold and effective work of the “Globe Room”
at the “Reindeer,” Banbury. There you have a massiveness of construction
and a breadth of design almost architectural: here there are no bold
projections, and the recurrent flat pilasters are covered with an
intricate Renaissance scroll and strap-work, which, although in itself
good, is too small in scale to be highly effective.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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