The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
Many historic memories linger around that ancient and beautiful house, the
“Saracen’s Head” at Southwell, in the Sherwood Forest district of
Nottinghamshire. Southwell, whose hoary Minster has in modern times become
a cathedral, has fallen into a dreamless slumber since the last of the
coaches left the road, and as the traveller comes into its quiet streets,
in whose midst the great Norman church stands solemnly, like some grey
architectural ghost, he feels that he has come into a place whose last
days of activity ended considerably over half a century ago.
The “Saracen’s Head” was built in that interesting, but vague, period of
“ever so long ago”; the nearest attempt at determining its age to which
most chroniclers dare commit themselves. Whether the existing house is the
same building as that of this name conveyed by the Archbishop of York in
1396 to John Fysher and his wife Margaret, does not appear, but there
seems very little reason to doubt that, although greatly altered and added
to from time to time, the present “Saracen’s Head” is, essentially, in its
ancient timbering, the identical structure.
The frontage of the inn, now as ever the chief inn of Southwell, little
indicates its great age, for it is covered with a coat of grey plaster,
and, were it not for the enormously substantial oaken doors of the
coach-entrance, and the peep through the archway of the old courtyard,
the casual wayfarer might pass the historic house by.
[Illustration: YARD OF THE “SARACEN’S HEAD,” SOUTHWELL.]
For it is historic, in an intimate and a melancholy way. Dismissing in a
word the remote visits paid by Edward the First and Edward the Third to
Southwell, when they are stated to have lodged at the “Saracen’s Head,” we
come to the harassed wanderings of Charles the First over the distracted
England of his time. That unhappy King well knew Southwell and the
“Saracen’s Head.” They were associated with the opening and the closing
scenes of his fight with Parliament and people, for he rested at the inn
on August 17th, 1642, on the way to raise the Royal Standard at Nottingham
on the 22nd; and at last, on May 5th, 1646, he abandoned the nearly four
years’ struggle against fate, surrendering himself here to the Scottish
Commissioners. Between those two fateful days he was certainly once at
Southwell, and possibly more often.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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