The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 1 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
In this view, later than 1770, and probably executed about 1800, we have
the “Golden Cross” inn of _Pickwick_. Its successor, the Gothic-fronted
building generally associated by Dickens commentators with that story, was
built in 1828 and demolished two years later. Dickens wrote _Pickwick_ in
1836: when both the house he indicated and its successor were swept away,
and the very site cleared and made a part of the open road; but, as he
specifically states that the Pickwickians began their travels on May 13th,
1827, it must needs have been the predecessor of the Gothic building from
which they set forth on the “Commodore” coach for Rochester.
The inn at that time had a hospitable-looking front and a really handsome
range of coffee-room windows looking out upon the street. Beside them you
see the celebrated archway of Jingle’s excited and disjointed cautions:
“Terrible place--dangerous work--other day--five children--mother--tall
lady, eating sandwiches--forgot the arch--crash--knock--children look
round--mother’s head off--sandwich in her hand--no mouth to put it
in--head of a family off--shocking, shocking!”
The great stable-yard and the back premises probably remained untouched,
for when David Copperfield came up by coach from Canterbury, the “Golden
Cross” was, we learn, “a mouldy sort of establishment,” and his bedroom
“smelt like a hackney-coach, and was shut up like a family
vault”--characteristics not generally associated with new buildings.
But, indeed, although references to the “Golden Cross” are plentiful in
literature, they are few of them flattering: “A nasty inn, remarkable for
filth and apparent misery,” wrote Edward Shergold, early in the nineteenth
century, and he was but one of a cloud of witnesses to the same effect. It
is thus a little difficult to understand a writer in _The Epicure’s
Almanack_ for 1815, who says, in the commendatory way, that the fame of
the “Golden Cross” had spread “from the Pillars of Hercules to the Ganges;
from Nova Scotia to California.”
[Illustration: CHARING CROSS, ABOUT 1829, SHOWING THE “GOLDEN CROSS” INN.
_From the engraving after T. Hosmer Shepherd._]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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