The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
The history of the inns at which Pepys stayed would form an interesting
subject of inquiry. Few men of his time were better informed than he on
the subject of inns: large, small, dear, cheap, comfortable and
uncomfortable: they are all set forth in detail in his _Diary_. He more
than once patronised the “Red Lion” at Guildford, a far more important
house then than now. At that time it possessed very fine and extensive
orchards and gardens, and, according to Aubrey, could make up fifty beds,
and owned stables for two hundred horses. Imagination can easily picture
Mr. Pepys, during his stay in 1661, cutting asparagus for supper: “the
best that ever I ate in my life.”
Those gardens were long since abolished, and Market Street stands on the
site of them.
On June 10th, 1668, we find him sleeping at the “George,” Salisbury, in a
silk bed. He notes that he had “very good diet, but very dear,” and had
probably, overnight, when sleeping in that silk bed, been visited with
gruesome thoughts of the bill to follow the luxury. The bill was, as he
expressed it, “exorbitant.”
Insatiable curiosity in that old Pepys. Something, too, of childlike
wonder, infantile artlessness, and a fear of strange things, and the dark.
His inquisitiveness took him to the lonely giant ramparts of Old Sarum,
“prodigious, so as to fright me”; and thereabouts he and his party of
three ladies riding pillion found, and stayed at, a rustic inn, where a
pedlar was turned out of bed in order that our Samuel might turn in. The
party found the beds “lousy.” Strangely enough, this was a discovery
“which made us merry.” Every man to his taste in merriment.
And so, enjoying the full savour of life, he goes his way, as appreciative
of good music as of a good dinner, and a connoisseur alike of sermons and
of a pretty face. Did he ever outlive his lusts, and know all things to be
vanities, before his natural force had abated? or did the end surprise him
in midst of his worldly activities?
A transition from Pepys to Sir Roger de Coverley is easy and natural. The
old servant in Sir Roger’s family, retiring from service and taking an
inn, is one of Addison’s most pleasing pictures. To do honour to his
master, the old retainer had Sir Roger’s portrait painted and hung it out
as his sign, under the title of the “Knight’s Head.”
As soon as Sir Roger was acquainted with it, finding that his servant’s
indiscretion proceeded wholly from affection and good-will, he only told
him that he made him too high a compliment; and when the fellow seemed to
think that could hardly be, added, with a more decisive look, that it was
too great an honour for any man under a duke; but told him, at the same
time, that it might be altered with a very few touches, and that he
himself would be at the charge of it. Accordingly, they got a painter, by
the Knight’s directions, to add a pair of whiskers to the face, and, by a
little aggravation of the features, to change it into the “Saracen’s
Head.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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