The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own CountryHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Old Inns of Old England, Volume 2 (of 2): A Picturesque Account of the Ancient and Storied Hostelries of Our Own Country
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Social life and customs; Hotels -- England
The fisher village of Mousehole, in Cornwall--whose name is a perennial
joy to visitors--possesses a manor-house turned inn; a private house made
public: if indeed it be not altogether derogatory to a picturesque village
inn to style it by a name more usually associated with a mere modern urban
drinking-shop.
[Illustration: THE “KING’S ARMS,” SANDWICH.]
Mousehole may be found a little to the westward of Penzance and Newlyn.
Like most of its fellows, it lies along the sides and in the bottom of a
hollow, where the sea comes in like a pool, and gives more or less shelter
to fisher-boats. No one who retains his sense of smell ever has any doubt
of Mousehole being engaged in the fish trade, for there are fresh fish
continually being brought in, and there are fish, very far from fresh,
preserved in the fish-cellars that are so striking a feature of the
place, in the olfactory way. In those cellars the pilchards that are the
staple of the Cornish fishery are barrelled until such time as they are
wanted for export to the Mediterranean, whence, it is commonly believed,
they return, in all the glory of oil, tinned and labelled in strange
tongues, “sardines.”
[Illustration: THE “KEIGWIN ARMS,” MOUSEHOLE.]
In midst of the crowded houses, and in the thick of these ancient and
fishlike odours, stands this rugged old inn, the “Keigwin Arms,”
remarkable for its picturesque exterior and for the boldly projecting
porch, supported on granite pillars, rather than for any internal
beauties. It survives, as it were, to show that not all manor-houses were
abodes of luxury, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth.
I do not know what the Keigwins blazoned on their old coat, for the sign
displays no armorial bearings, and the Keigwins were long since extinct.
But they were once great here and otherwhere. Here they were the squires,
and you read that in 1595, when the Spaniards, grown saucy and revengeful
after their Armada disaster of seven years earlier, came and burnt the
town while Drake and Hawkins and our sea-dogs were looking the other way,
Jenkin Keigwin, the squire, was killed by a cannon-ball, in front of his
own house.
[Illustration: THE “SWAN,” KNOWLE.]
[Illustration: SIGN OF THE “SWAN,” KNOWLE.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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