England -- Antiquities; England -- Description and travel; Roads -- Great Britain
The manner of this landscape was that of a great gesture; its outline
was like the movement of a hand that sketches a cartoon; its sweep was
like the free arm of a sower sowing broadcast. The bank, moreover,
upon which the Old Road here stands is so steep that it produces an
effect of greater height and whatever expansion of the mind
accompanies a wide horizon.
There dominated that view a character of space and dignity which not
even the Itchen valley from the heights, nor the Weald from the crest
of the Surrey Downs, could equal. The crossings of the Wey, of the
Mole, and of the Darent, the valleys which there interrupted the
general line of our hillside road, seemed narrow and familiar as one
gazed upon this much greater plain.
Far off, miles and miles away, the hills continued their interminable
line. The haze, and a certain warm quality in the winter light, added
to the vastness of the air, and made the distant range seem as remote
as a to-morrow; it was lost in a grey-blue that faded at last into a
mere sky upon the extreme east.
Along those hills our way was clearly to be continued. Their trend was
not, indeed, due east and west as the Old Road had run so long: they
turned a little southerly; but the general line, bending down to
Canterbury and to the Straits, followed that crest, and its furthest
visible height was not far distant from our goal.
Just opposite us, upon the further side of the valley, was faintly to
be discerned such another shoulder as that upon which we stood. We
made it out upon our map to bear the good name of 'Grey Wethers,' as
does that rock far off eastwards, out of which was built Stonehenge.
Upon that shoulder had stood the abbey of Boxley. It marked the point
where, beyond the valley, the Pilgrim's Way is recognised again. But
in the interval between, across this broad flat valley, its passage
had never been fixed.
We might have thought, had we not hitherto learnt much of the Old
Road, that no problem was there, save to cross in a direct line the
valley before us, and make by evening that further shoulder of 'Grey
Wethers,' where we should find the road again; but we had followed the
track too long to think that it could so easily be recovered. We
guessed that in so wide a gap as was here made by the Medway in the
line of hills a difficulty, greater than any we had yet met, would
arise, and that we should not overcome it without a longer search than
had been necessary at the Wey or even the Mole.
We were now familiar with such platforms and such views. Upon a lesser
scale we had felt their meaning when we stood upon the rock of St.
Catherine's at evening and considered the crossing of the Wey; or on
that other spur, eastward of Dorking, when we had seen Box Hill beyond
the valley under the growing night. They also, the men long before
us, had chosen such particular places from whence to catch the whole
of a day's march, and to estimate their best opportunity for getting
to the further shore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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