Natural history -- Scotland -- Orkney; Orkney (Scotland) -- Description and travel; Orkney (Scotland) -- History
The glen itself, we find as we make the descent into it, is a bit of true
highland scenery—the only bit, indeed, which Orkney has to show. Its
rugged, lonely grandeur is unique in these islands. Heather and bracken,
wild rose and honeysuckle, juniper, dwarf birch, and willow mingle in
such luxuriance as to suggest a more favoured latitude. The glen of
Berriedale, which opens out of the main valley to the west, is sometimes
called the “Garden of Orkney,” but it is a garden of nature’s own.
Hoy is for the most part of a sterner aspect, as we shall quickly find
if we cross the valley and dare to attack the Ward Hill. The only risk
we shall run in doing so will be that of stiff limbs for several days
to come, unless, indeed, a sudden descent of cloud or mist should find
us unprovided with a guide who knows the “lay of the land.” The sturdy
luxuriance of the heather is likely to be our chief difficulty in the
climb.
Standing at last on the summit of the Ward Hill, we find ourselves at
a height of 1,564 feet above the sea, on a somewhat bare and stony
plateau, and not far from the highest point there is, curiously enough,
an excellent spring of water. A very clear day is necessary if we are
to enjoy the sight of all that this elevation commands. We shall then
see the whole archipelago spread out before us as on a map—a marvellous
panorama of sea and land. Even the Fair Isle shows its conical head above
the north-eastern horizon. The north coast of Scotland stretches out
westward to Cape Wrath, and in the blue distance to the southwards many
a peak of the Northern Highlands can be distinguished.
If we descend the hill on its southern slope, we shall find a short
though a steep way to the next point of interest in Hoy—the Dwarfie
Stone. The description of this curious relic of the industry of some
unknown workman has been well given by Hugh Miller, whose name may still
be read carved on its bare interior, while the legendary interest may
best be gathered from Sir Walter Scott in his notes to “The Pirate.”
South of the valley in which the Dwarfie Stone lies, the ground rises
to a long stretch of moorland, broken only by burns and lochs, till it
dips down to the fringe of low, cultivated ground round Longhope, in the
parish of Walls. This part of the island, however, is too distant to be
included in our day’s excursion, and may be visited direct by steamer
from Stromness some other day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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