Natural history -- Scotland -- Orkney; Orkney (Scotland) -- Description and travel; Orkney (Scotland) -- History
We halt only long enough to obtain a welcome cup of tea, and then
continue our ride. Less than a mile brings us to the road which leads
over the Bridge of Brogar to the Standing Stones, and we decide on making
a brief pilgrimage to this the most ancient shrine in the islands—if,
indeed, it was a shrine. But as the afternoon is wearing towards evening,
and we have been here several times before, we merely sit down on the
short heather beside the circle long enough to let the mystery and
“eeriness” of the scene sink into our minds and set us wondering silently
what it all meant in the far-off days when it was new.
We need not wait here in the hope of finding out, so we ride back past
the tall “sentinel” stone and the smaller circle of Stenness to the main
road. Another mile brings us abreast of Maeshowe, and with the spirit
of the past upon us we stop once more. We obtain the key of this famous
chambered mound from the farmhouse opposite, in order that we may spend a
few minutes more in “wondering.”
There is nothing about Maeshowe, or even about the Standing Stones, to
attract the superficial mind, but to those who “wonder,” and who can
see things which vanished from outward view many centuries ago, those
places are almost holy ground. They embody and embalm some of the deepest
thoughts of a long-vanished people; and though we can hardly guess what
these thoughts were, the monuments are sacred relics to us. They are
milestones, we may say, marking early stages in the long advance of our
race.
[Illustration: _The Sentinel Stone, Stenness._]
After leaving Maeshowe we face an incline just heavy enough to recall our
thoughts to the present, and soon we are passing through the pretty glen
which opens on the Bay of Firth. The patches of shrubbery and trees round
Binscarth on our left give a pleasing variety to the scenery, and show us
once more the possibilities and the limitations of our islands as regards
the cultivation of woods.
The village of Finstown, the half-way house between Kirkwall and
Stromness, has a beautiful situation, which can be better appreciated
from the hillside above it than from the road, and it is well placed for
attracting a share of the ordinary business of the districts around. It
has a prosperous look, and its name reminds us that it claims to be more
than a mere village.
[Illustration: _Maeshowe._]
Before us on our left lies the wide, shallow Bay of Firth, or “The
Firth,” as it might more correctly be called, which gives its name to the
surrounding district. To the Norsemen it was the “Sea-trout Firth,” and
must have been important for its fishing. In more recent times it had
a famous oyster-fishery; but that too has become a thing of the past,
though by the exercise of a little foresight and public spirit it could
easily be restored.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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