The Pacification of BurmaCrosthwaite, C. H. T. (Charles Haukes Todd)
History
The Pacification of Burma
Crosthwaite, C. H. T. (Charles Haukes Todd)
Burma -- History -- 1824-1948
"It lies in a plain about twenty miles long and perhaps fifteen
broad. To the west and north this is perfectly flat and under paddy
cultivation; to the east and south are low grassy hills with swamps
in the hollows. The town is built on the western edge of this rolling
country and overlooks the paddy-lands. It is surrounded by a wall about
fifteen feet high, and machicolated at the top." (The wall and a moat
were constructed by the Burman King Alompra in the eighteenth century.)
"The bricks are insufficiently burnt, the wall is old and therefore
crumbled away in many places, so that it is picturesque rather than
formidable; moreover, some hills to the south-west would enable
field-guns to drop shells wherever they pleased over the _enceinte_.
The wall follows the line of the rolling ground, and to the north and
south towers above the plain. To the west it has not this natural
advantage, and jungle affords admirable cover up to the dry ditch
which protects it on this side. To north-east and south swampy ground
covers the approach. The walls measure four and three-quarter miles
round, and have ten gates, which used to be covered by semicircular
arches. Only two of these arches, however, now remain, both on the
eastern face. There is very little level ground within the walls, and
only the northern half of the walled town is inhabited. Even this
portion is so overrun with trees as to be almost jungle, and there
are several large swamps among the houses. These supply the people
with water to drink and small mud-fish to eat. There are probably
seven or eight hundred houses within the walls, and many of these
are very substantial. Some are entirely built of brick; some have
brick basements and plank walling; and the number of bamboo houses is
very small. All the better-class houses are roofed with small tiles
made locally. To judge from the Sawbwa's audience-hall, these tiles
are not a very satisfactory protection against rain, but they at any
rate prevent the fires which do such frequent mischief in other Shan
towns. The monasteries are numerous, and some of them are adorned with
elaborate carving and wall paintings. They are much like the ordinary
Burmese or Shan Kyaung (monastery) in general architecture, but there
is an indefinable suggestion of Tartar influence about them. This is
particularly noticeable in the massive gateways which immediately
suggest the _paifang_ of China."
There was a very large colony of Shan Chinese to the east of the town.
They had large gardens and kept innumerable goats, pigs, ducks, and
fowls.
"Their houses are all built of bamboo, and their villages, like
those of China, are inconceivably dirty, though in their person the
inhabitants are clean enough."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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