The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Prohibition to kill cattle on the eve of fast days.
Prohibition to sell stale meat.
Prohibition to keep meat more than two days in winter, or more than one
day and a-half in summer.
Prohibition to sell meat by lamp light or candle light.
The regulations respecting the cleanliness of the slaughter houses and
the shambles were very long and very severe.[XV-70]
A butcher in Paris kept but one single kind of meat, in the 14th
century. Pork was sold only at Sainte-Geneviève, mutton at
Saint-Marceau, veal at Saint-Germain, and beef at the market of the
Châtelet.[XV-71]
Philip Augustus gave statutes to the butchers of Paris in the year 1182.
He enjoined them to observe the Sabbath, and permitted them to work on
the other days, with the exception of the great festivals.[XV-72]
The regulations imposed upon them in the 17th century are to the effect,
that they shall not keep the fat from one week to another; that they
shall not mix the different kinds of suet; and, lastly, that they shall
not have more than three shops, and shall not allow the blood to run in
the streets.[XV-73]
XVI.
ANIMALS.
THE PIG.
If intelligence, strength, or graceful beauty of form were to decide
what rank this numerous class of animals--which has contributed its
quota to the triumphs of the culinary art--should occupy on our tables,
the pig, with its vile and stupid ugliness, its depraved habits, and its
waddling obesity, would be banished for ever from the farm-yard and
larder in every civilised nation of the world.
But, in refusing to it brilliant external qualities, Nature, by a wise
compensation, has conferred on it others much more solid; and this
quadruped, so despised during its life-time, does not fail after its
death to conciliate the constant favour of rich and poor--of the man
indifferent to the attractions of good cheer, and of the Sybarite, ever
attentive to enlarge its domain.
Pliny, the naturalist, places the pig one degree below the scale of
beings. Apicius, the cook, gives it a marked preference over all meats
which passed through his skilful hands. From this, it will easily be
understood that the pig presents itself first in this survey of the
animal diet of those nations who have transmitted to us an account of
their gastrophagic exertions.
History shows us this animal variously appreciated by different
countries. Certain people consecrated it, when living, to their
divinities most in vogue; others honoured its image--a symbol, they
thought, of the quiet happiness of states; a small number abhorred it,
and the greater part found it excellent eating.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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