Westphalia supplied sumptuous tables with much-esteemed hams; but those of Sardinia, Catalonia, and Cantabria were, nevertheless, preferred.[XVI-40] They were sometimes served at the beginning of a repast, in order to excite the appetite; and also often at the close, in order to re-animate its extinguished ardour, and provoke new libations.[XVI-41] One of the most ancient geoponics teaches how to prepare, salt, and smoke hams;[XVI-42] for the inhabitants of the country, and the lower classes in the cities, showed a singular taste for this delicate meat, which the Gauls (great amateurs of pork)[XVI-43] sent them at a low price, with an enormous quantity of pickled pork, _andouillettes_, and sausages.[XVI-44] This last preparation, very celebrated in Lucania,[XVI-45] served as a means of livelihood to a great number of Roman women, who also employed themselves in making excellent black puddings, in imitation of those eaten in Greece.[XVI-46] Bacon was then of great utility, as in the present day, though oil superseded it in the concoction of a host of dishes. Bacon for a long time served almost as the exclusive food of the Romans,[XVI-47] before their unruly luxury had given it up to the soldiers and proletarians.[XVI-48] It was also found in all public houses,[XVI-49] where the populace habitually gorged themselves with pork, vegetables,[XVI-50] and hot water.[XVI-51] The ancients salted the pig, in order to preserve it; but Apicius taught them a very simple process for the use of epicures, which advantageously replaced common brine. You take middling-sized pieces of pork, cover them entirely with a sort of paste, composed of salt, vinegar, and honey, and place them in vessels which you close carefully.[XVI-52] We will now indicate some of the dishes most in vogue prepared with pork--a meat so much esteemed by the Greeks and Romans, and in which they believed themselves to have discovered fifty different flavours,[XVI-53] or fifty parts, each possessing a distinct taste from the other. _Apician Pork._--Roast a fine young sucking pig; and whilst a slow fire gently embellishes it with a golden colour, pound, with pepper and alisander, some coriander seed, mint, and rue. Then pour over it some wine, honey, garum, or gravy; mix with care these different ingredients, and pour this seasoning on your roast, as soon as you have taken it from the spit or oven.[XVI-54]