The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Sometimes, in a moment of over tenderness for his dear _muræna Helena_,
Vedius Pollio, a Roman knight of the highest distinction, and one of the
intimate friends of the Emperor Augustus, could find nothing better to
do than to feed them with the flesh of his slaves, who were thrown to
them alive.[XXI-20] It is true that these wretched creatures generally
deserved this terrible chastisement; for instance, Seneca speaks of one
who had the awkwardness to break a crystal vase[XXI-21] while waiting at
supper on the irascible Pollio. This unfortunate slave having managed to
escape from the hands of those who were conducting him to this horrible
death, he went and fell on his knees at the feet of Cæsar, whom he
implored to inflict some less frightful torture. Augustus, moved to the
very soul, granted him his liberty, had all of Vedius’s vases broken,
and ordered that the pieces should be used to fill up the reservoir in
which the barbarous knight fed his _muræna Helena_.[XXI-22]
Having given this rapid sketch of the principal periods of ichthyophagy
among the ancients, little remains to be said of later ages in which we
find few traces of any particular or excessive predilection for this
kind of alimentation. If we are to believe Dio,[XXI-23] the first
inhabitants of Great Britain never eat fish. The English have not
thought it expedient to imitate their ancestors in this respect.
Under the reign of Edward II., certain fish, especially the sturgeon,
never appeared in England except on the table of the king: it was
prohibited to all others. In 1138, Stephen wanted to modify this
interdiction; but after his reign it was again in vigour, and considered
as a royal prerogative.
In France, anybody could eat fish, of any and all kinds; but every
fishmonger was obliged to obtain permission from the king to sell
it.[XXI-24]
The sumptuary laws of that kingdom inform us of nothing very interesting
on this essential of gastrology. We find, however, by the Edict of 1294,
that Philip-le-Bel allowed, on fast-days, two herring-pottages, and only
one sort of fish--a meagre dinner, if ever there was one, and which,
thank heaven, has fallen into complete disuse. Louis XII. was very fond
of good cheer, and, consequently, he appointed six fishmongers to supply
his table with fresh-water fish;[XXI-25] Francis I. had
twenty-two;[XXI-26] Henry the Great, twenty-four.[XXI-27]
Under the reign of Louis XIV. fish acquired a singular vogue in the city
as well as at court, owing to the marvellous talent of that prince’s
cook, who discovered the art, supposed to be lost, of giving to the
delicate flesh of the pike, the carp, and the trout, the shape and
flavour of the most exquisite game.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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