The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Near Sicyona, a city of the Peloponnesus,[XXI-113] they formerly caught
conger-eels of such immense size, that it required a waggon drawn by
oxen to carry a single one.[XXI-114] The body, the whole of the head,
and even the intestines[XXI-115] were eaten. This dish, worthy of being
offered by Neptune to his divine colleagues, was capable, like ambrosia,
of bestowing immortality on those who had the good fortune of tasting
it, and the dead would return to life, had it been possible to serve
them with a piece of this exquisite fish.[XXI-116]
These childish exaggerations have not prevented Galen from treating the
conger-eel with very little respect: he affirms, that nothing is more
hard or indigestible.[XXI-117] And, indeed, epicureans of some repute
allowed only the head to appear on their tables;[XXI-118] and then only
at rare intervals, and under the auspices of a relishing sauce which
assured its reception.
The Romans had still less esteem for this too highly praised fish.
However, sometimes a fried conger-eel occupied on the _sigma_ an obscure
place, in the midst of a seasoning flavoured highly with pepper,
alisander, cummin, wild marjoram, dried onion, and hard yolks of eggs;
with which a skilful hand carefully mixed to the whole, vinegar, sweet
wine, garum, and cooked wine.[XXI-119]
EEL.
In some parts of Egypt the eel was not eaten, because it was thought
indigestible.[XXI-120] In other places it received religious
worship.[XXI-121] They were ornamented, whether they liked it or not,
with silver, gold, and precious stones, and priests daily offered them
the entrails of animals and cheese.[XXI-122]
The Greeks thought highly of eels. “Behold the Helen of feasts!” cried
Eidicastes, at the moment when one was served; “I will be her
Paris!”[XXI-123] and the glutton seized and devoured it immediately.
Bœotia--where this fish was immolated to the gods[XXI-124]--the
straits of Sicily,[XXI-125] and the Copian lake, furnished eels
remarkable for their delicacy and size;[XXI-126] these were served fried
and enveloped in beet leaves.[XXI-127] They enjoyed a high reputation
among the Sybarites, a choice nation, who would have invented cookery if
the art had not already existed, and among whom a repast was so serious
a matter, that a whole year was not thought too long in order to
meditate upon it and get it ready.[XXI-128]
But Hippocrates did not like the eel, and he forbade it to his patients,
and to persons attacked with a pulmonary affection.[XXI-129] So that
this Queen of Luxury, as Archestrates calls it,[XXI-130] met with as
many enemies as partisans. Egypt adored it, Greece was enamoured of it,
Rome despised it, and the plebeian alone reserved it to the humiliation
in his brutal orgies.[XXI-131]
Apicius, however, has condescended to notice this fish. Mix, says he,
pepper, alisander, parsley seed, dill, and dates; add to this honey,
vinegar, garum, oil, mustard, and cooked wine;[XXI-132] serve this sauce
with the eel.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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