The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Mustard, according to their opinion, excites the appetite, gives
piquancy to meat, strengthens the stomach, and facilitates digestion. It
is better suited, say they, to bilious constitutions than to lymphatic
persons; and they recommended its use in summer, rather than in
winter.[VI-2]
The good Pliny, always disposed to adopt, without much examination, any
stories, provided they were but slightly exaggerated, was convinced, and
affirms, with his accustomed good humour, that this plant is a sovereign
remedy against the bite of the most venomous serpents: it is only
necessary to apply it to the wound. And, again, if taken inwardly, there
is nothing to fear from the poisonous effects of certain
mushrooms.[VI-3] The doctors of the 19th century are, apparently, little
inclined to adopt the method recommended by the worthy naturalist.
Mustard seed is only mentioned in the Bible as a term of comparison; its
alimentary qualities are nowhere indicated.[VI-4]
The Romans, and other nations after them, fermented this seed in new
sweet wine. It is from this, perhaps, we must seek for the origin of the
word mustard, “_mustum ardens_” (burning wine)[VI-5]; some gastronomic
writers give it another derivation, not generally adopted. This
condiment, say they, was formerly called _sauve_ or _senevé_. It was
only towards the close of the 14th century that this name was changed.
Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, marching against the inhabitants of
Ghent, who had revolted from him, and the city of Dijon having supplied
him for this expedition with a thousand men-at-arms, the prince, in
gratitude, granted to that city, amongst other privileges, that of
bearing his arms, with his motto, “_Moult me tarde_.” The whole of this
was carved on the principal gate of Dijon, but an accident having
destroyed the middle word, the two others _moult tarde_ caused many a
smile at the expense of the Dijonnais; and as they traded in _senevé_
(mustard), this grain was called in derision _moutarde_, when it came
from Dijon, a name it has preserved ever since.[VI-6] If this etymology
is not true, at least it is ingenious.
_Coriander_, amongst the Romans, appears to have possessed the same
property as mustard, that is to say, they considered it was
strengthening and digestive.[VI-7] They employed it also in a very
useful manner during the great heat of summer: they mixed it with
vinegar, after it had been well bruised or pounded, and laid it over any
kind of meat, which this coating preserved in a perfect state of
freshness.[VI-8]
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