The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
Pliny classifies the bitter seed of the _Lupin_ as a grain pertaining to
that of wheat;[VI-9] and if you soak it, he says, in boiling water, it
becomes so mild that it can be eaten.[VI-10] Zeno, of Citium, was of the
same opinion. This philosopher, with all his wisdom, could not help
showing his bad temper, even towards his best friends at times, but was
very affable after he had quaffed several cups of delicious wine. One
day he was asked for an explanation of this contrast in his temper.
“That is very simple,” he replied; “I am of the same nature as the
lupins: their bitterness is insupportable before they are soaked, but
they are of an exquisite mildness when they have been well
steeped.”[VI-11]
We strongly doubt, nevertheless, whether this plant has ever been
honoured by the patronage of connoisseurs and people of delicate taste;
a very high authority in cookery--Lycophon, of Chalcis--used to say,
with a kind of disdain, that this despicable plant was hardly good
enough for the common fare of the mob, or to feast the guests at a
beggar’s table.[VI-12]
It was principally used as food for cattle, and not without reason, if
it be true that twenty pounds of lupins are sufficient to fatten an
ox.[VI-13]
The lovers of etymology, who may be classified in the family of readers
of logogriphs, were in raptures at finding the following: “The Latin
name of _Lupinus_ has been given to this grain because the lupin wears
out and destroys the land nearly as the wolf destroys and devours the
flocks; whereupon they exclaimed, with pride, ‘_Lupinus à
lupo!_’ ”[VI-14]
At the period when the gods did not exact much, but were contented with
humble offerings, men placed on the altars loaves made of _Linseed_
meal; a treat the immortals gratefully accepted, though certainly it
would not much tempt us[VI-15] of the present day.
The Asiatics afterwards thought of pounding the linseed, frying it, and
mixing it with honey; these cakes seemed to them too good for their
divinities, so they ate them themselves.[VI-16]
In the time of Pliny, the Lombards and Piedmontese ate this miserable
bread of the gods, and even found in it a most agreeable flavour:[VI-17]
these nations have since improved their taste.
Shall we mention _Hempseed_, the _Cannabis_ of the ancients, which was
served fried for dessert?[VI-18] That hemp should be spun and made into
ropes, well and good; but to regale one’s-self with it after
dinner,--when the stomach is overloaded with food, and hardly moved from
its lethargic quietude by the appearance of the most provoking viands
that art can invent--what depravity! What strange perversion of the most
simple elements of gastronomy!
The Arabs, that wandering nation, who are not yet acquainted with the
roasting-spit, nor the voluptuousness of a delicious repast, formerly
intoxicated themselves with a beverage extracted from linseed;[VI-19]
we, who are in possession of generous wine, let us deplore such
excesses, and not imitate them.
VII.
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