“In some countries cauliflowers are dried, and the white headed cabbages are preserved. The first, stripped of their leaves, are cut in slices, and boiled two minutes in water slightly salted. They are shortly after withdrawn, and put to drain on hurdles, which are afterwards exposed to the sun during two or three days. At the expiration of that time the cauliflowers are placed in an oven half-warm, and are kept there till the stalks are dry; they are then wrapped in paper to preserve them from damp. To keep the headed cabbages, divide them in six or eight pieces, according to size, throw them for an instant in boiling water, then withdraw and plunge them in vinegar, which from time to time must be changed, especially at the beginning, taking care to add always a little salt.”--DUTOUR. BEET. Columella pretends that this plant owes its name (_beta_) to its resemblance to the letter B.[IX-25] We shall leave to the professional etymologist the trouble of examining whether Columella made a mistake or not. The Greeks had two distinct sorts of beet--the black and the pale; they preferred the latter,[IX-26] especially when it came from Ascrea in Bœotia.[IX-27] They called this species Sicilian beet; and the physician Diphilus--who joined to his knowledge of botany that sort of gastrophagic intuition, that culinary _mens divinior_, whose inspiration never leads astray--placed it far above the cabbage, notwithstanding the estimable qualities of this latter vegetable.[IX-28] He recommended it to be eaten boiled, with mustard, and considers this food as a very excellent vermifuge.[IX-29] The beet has not found favour with Martial, who, always caustic and severe, calls it an insipid dish.[IX-30] This injurious, and perhaps unjust, epithet would doubtless have exercised a fatal influence upon the destiny of this most inoffensive of vegetables, if an opponent of greater weight had not entered the lists against the atrabilarious poet. We read in Apicius: “Boil, over a slow fire, some very tender white beet; add leeks, which have been taken from their native soil some days previous; when all this is cooked put it into a saucepan with pepper, gravy, and raisin wine; take care that the ebullition be regular, and serve.[IX-31] “Or, if you prefer: tie in bundles the beet you have carefully chosen, wash it, throw in some nitre, and boil it with water; then put it into a saucepan with sun-raisin wine, pepper, cummin, and a little oil; at the moment of ebullition add a mixture of gravy and coarsely chopped walnuts; cover the saucepan for an instant, uncover, and serve.”[IX-32] The skilful artist is pleased for the third time to mention this culinary herb; and this is the new preparation which he gives:-- “When you have boiled beet in water until it is tender, add a pulp of leeks, some coriander, and cummin seed, carefully combined with flour and sun-made wine; place these different ingredients in a saucepan, and add gravy, oil, and vinegar.”[IX-33]