By tasting one of these dishes you will be convinced that Martial did not understand them; or, perhaps, he composed his epigram after dinner. One species of beet is well known in its two principal varieties, under the name of beet-root and white-beet. The southern parts of Europe appear to be the native countries of the beet. It serves as food for both man and cattle. Sugar is extracted from the root, and potash from the stalks and leaves. Beet-root is preserved, after stripping it completely of its leaves, and the earth which remains on them, in greenhouses, in dry cellars, and even in trenches covered with earth, in layers, lengthwise, with sand. They are thus preserved until the following May. “Beet-root is eaten cooked in ashes or in water, and seasoned in various ways; they are excellent in salad, either by themselves, or mixed with endives or dandelion, &c.”--BOSC. SPINACH. It does not appear that spinach was known to the Greeks and Romans. Some authors think that it might be the _chrysolacanon_ of the Greeks,[IX-34] but it is probable that this was no other than the _orach_;[IX-35] Beckmann[IX-36] thinks, with several botanists, that this plant came from Spain; and, indeed, it has been often called the _Spanish vegetable_.[IX-37] We only speak of this plant by way of memento, and regret that our first masters in cookery have not been able to transmit to us the results of their studies and experience in the preparation of spinach, whose precocity must always render it valuable to amateurs of vegetable food. MALLOWS. The ancients ate mallows, and recognised in them soothing and softening qualities.[IX-38] Diphilus of Siphne says that their juice lubricates the windpipe, nourishes, and is easily digested.[IX-39] Horace praises this aliment;[IX-40] and Martial, for once just, recommends its use.[IX-41] It is true that a passage of Cicero would seem to indicate we know not what deception, which appeared all at once when eating or after partaking of mallows;[IX-42] but the Roman orator, perhaps, knew little of the properties of the plant, which were only described much later by Pliny the naturalist. The curious may consult on this subject the twenty-first chapter of the twentieth book of his great work. At all events mallows were in high renown; they occupied one of the first ranks among pickles, those famous _acetaria_ which had so powerful an effect in quickening the appetites of the Greeks, and preparing their stomachs for great gastronomic struggles.[IX-43] They were served as a salad. The large-leaved mallow was mixed with œnogarum, pepper, gravy, and sun-made wine.[IX-44] The small-leaved mallows were also prepared with œnogarum and gravy; but instead of pepper and wine, oil and vinegar were added.[IX-45] ASPARAGUS.