The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the WorldSoyer, Alexis
History
The Pantropheon; Or, History of Food, Its Preparation, from the Earliest Ages of the World
Soyer, Alexis
Cooking; Food; Gastronomy
The bitter lettuce was sufficient for the frugal Hebrews,[IX-128] but
the delicate epicureans of Athens and Rome were much more particular;
they valued them only when a mild and sweet savour invited the most
rebellious palate, and awakened the slumbering desires of a fatigued
stomach. And what care, what attention, did they not bestow on the
growth and maturity of this cherished plant!
Aristoxenus, a philosopher by profession, an epicurean by taste, had in
his garden a species of lettuce which was the envy of his surrounding
neighbours. The worthy man, rendered happy by their jealous admiration,
went every evening, without fail, to contemplate the small square of
ground which contained his treasure, and sprinkled it carefully with
water, doubtless from a limpid stream. Tush! Water, to moisten the
lettuces of Aristoxenus! No: the philosopher kept in reserve a sweet and
excellent wine to quench the thirst of his plants, and to communicate to
them that delicate perfume and exquisite taste, the mysterious cause of
which baffled the neighbouring gastronomists.
The day after, the arch old man would say, with a roguish smile, that he
was going to gather some relishing green cakes, which the earth prepared
expressly for him,[IX-129] and the simple countrymen were wonder-struck
without understanding the cause.
The lettuce--favourite plant of the beautiful Adonis[IX-130]--possesses
a narcotic virtue, of which ancient physicians have taken notice. Galen
mentions that, in his old age, he had not found a better remedy against
the wakefulness he was troubled with.[IX-131] The biographer of
Augustus informs us that this Emperor, being attacked with hypochondria,
recovered only by the use of lettuces, recommended by Musa, his first
physician;[IX-132] nothing, therefore, is wanting in praise of this
useful plant--literally nothing, since the king of cooks, Cœlius
Apicius, judged it worthy of an honourable place in the immortal book he
has bequeathed to the amateurs of the Archeologico-culinary science of
all ages and all countries.
“Take,” says he, “the leaves of lettuces, let them be boiled with
onions, in water wherein you have put some nitre; take them out, squeeze
out the water, and cut them in small pieces; mix well some pepper,
alisander,[IX-133] parsley seed, dried mint, and onions; put this
mixture to the lettuce, and add to the whole some gravy, oil, and
wine.”[IX-134]
Lettuces may also be eaten with a dressing of gravy and pickles.[IX-135]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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