As regards olives, the _Colymbades_, or floating kinds were more esteemed than any other, on account of their size and taste;[XII-21] they had an exquisite flavour imparted to them by being placed with different herbs in pots of oil:[XII-22] the _Halmade_ olives were preserved in brine.[XII-23] The cultivation of the olive tree was carried to a great extent in Greece; a host of poets sang in honour of this tree,[XII-24] which produced so sweet a fruit; and Theophrastus speaks of it very frequently in his celebrated treatise on plants.[XII-25] The Romans were not acquainted with it until later; and even in the year 249 B.C., they possessed so few olive trees that a pound of oil sold for twelve _As_, or three shillings; less than two centuries after (74 B.C.), ten pounds of it only cost one _As_; but Italy had so far increased its plantations at the end of a few years (52 B.C.) that it was able to furnish olive trees to the neighbouring countries.[XII-26] Its olives and oil were thought excellent; however, those of Grenada and Andalusia were preferred to them, even in the time of Pliny,[XII-27] on account of their sweetness and delicate flavour. That illustrious naturalist has transmitted to us particulars of the highest interest on the cultivation of the olive tree, and the various preparations which its fruit requires, or rather, to which it is necessarily subjected for the luxury of the table.[XII-28] Those who are curious on this subject may also consult Cato (the first among the Romans who has written on this tree),[XII-29] Varro,[XII-30] and Columella,[XII-31] concerning the art of raising the plants, of gathering the olives, of extracting the oil, and of preserving the olives themselves. This latter operation was performed as follows:-- They took twenty-five pounds of olives, six pounds of quick-lime, broken very small and dissolved in water, to which twelve pounds of oak ashes and water in proportion were added. The olives were left to soak for eight or ten hours in this lye; then taken out, washed with care, and immersed for eight days in very clear soft water, which was changed several times. They then took hot water in which some stems of fennel had been infused; this plant was taken out, and the same water saturated with salt until an egg would float. When it was quite cold, the olives were put into this pickle.[XII-32] As regards the large olives, or _colymbades_, they were sometimes crushed after the first operation, that the brine might penetrate more easily; and odoriferous herbs were added to give them a better flavour. This was the way they prepared those from the marshes of Ancona--the only ones admitted at the tables of _gourmets_.[XII-33] At Rome, olives made their appearance in the first course, at the beginning of the repast; but sometimes, after their introduction, the gluttony of the guests caused them to be served again with the dessert: so that they opened and closed the banquet.[XII-34]