In budding, the bud-sticks are cut as needed, after which the leaves
are trimmed leaving about a quarter of an inch of the stem as a handle
to the bud. After trimming, the sticks are wrapped in damp burlap and
are taken to the field--once dried, they are worthless. The buds at
the end of the bud-stick are discarded, the plump, hard buds near the
middle of the stick being the most vigorous. At the point where the
bud is to be inserted a T-shaped incision is made, the transverse cut
being secured by a rocking motion of the knife and the vertical one
by lightly drawing the knife upward from a point about an inch below
the first cut. Before removing the knife a slight twist of the blade
loosens the edges better to receive the bud.
The bud is cut from below upward with a drawing motion of the knife.
Nearly the entire thickness of the bark is cut at the point of the bud
so that it will not crumple when inserted into the stock. Almost no
wood is taken with the bud but on the other hand the bud must not be so
thin that the soft growing tissue between the bark and wood is injured.
The bud is taken between the thumb and forefinger and lifted free from
the wood. With the leaf-stem as a handle the bud is inserted into the
T-shaped incision and pushed down until its "heel" is flush with the
transverse cut. Waxing is not necessary but the bud must be securely
tied.
For this purpose raffia is now almost universally used. It is cut into
lengths of eighteen or twenty inches and moistened to make it soft and
pliable. The strand is first brought firmly across the upper end of
the bud to keep it from working out. Beginning then at the bottom of
the slit, the raffia is wound smoothly upward covering everything but
the "eye" and is tied in a single square knot. This winding must be
tight to hold the bud immovably in place. In from two to four weeks,
depending on the growth of the stock, the raffia should be cut to
prevent its girdling the tree.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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