The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
After St. Michael's, St. Philip's--although St. Philip's is the real
mother church of all Charleston. The old town does not pin her faith
upon a single lion. The first time we found our way down Meeting street,
we saw a delicate and belfried spire rising above the greenery of the
trees in a distant churchyard. The staunch church from which that spire
springs was well worth our attention. And so we found our way to St.
Philip's. We turned down Broad street from St. Michael's--to commercial
Charleston as its namesake street is to New York--then at the little
red-brick library, housed in the same place for nearly three-quarters of
a century, we turned again. The south portico of St. Philip's,
tall-columned, dignified almost beyond expression, confronted us. And a
moment later we found ourselves within a churchyard that ranked in
interest and importance with that of St. Michael's, itself.
A shambling negro care-taker came toward us. He had been engaged in
helping some children get a kitten down from the upper branches of a
tree in the old churchyard. With the intuition of his kind, he saw in
us, strangers--manifest possibilities. He devoted himself to attention
upon us. And he sounded the praises of his own exhibit in no mild key.
"Yessa--de fines' church in all de South," he said, as he swung the
great door of St. Philip's wide open. He seemed to feel, also
intuitively, that we had just come from the rival exhibit. And we felt
more than a slight suspicion of jealousy within the air.
The negro was right. St. Philip's, Charleston, is more than the finest
church in all the South. Perhaps it is not too much to say that it is
the most beautiful church in all the land. Copied, rather broadly, from
St. Martins-in-the-Fields, London, it thrusts itself out into the
street, indeed, makes the highway take a broad double curve in order to
pass its front portico. But St. Philip's commits the fearful Charleston
sin of being new. The present structure has only been thrusting its
nose out into Church street for a mere eighty years. The old St.
Philip's was burned--one of the most fearful of all Charleston
tragedies--in 1834.
"Yessa--a big fire dat," said the caretaker. "They gib two slaves dere
freedom for helpin' at dat fire."
But history only records the fact that the efforts to put out the fire
in St. Philip's were both feeble and futile. It does tell, however, of a
negro sailor who, when the old church was threatened by fire on an
earlier occasion, climbed to the tower and tore the blazing shingles
from it and was afterward presented with his freedom and a fishing-boat
and outfit. Does that sound familiar? It was in our Third Reader--some
lurid verses but, alas for the accuracy that should be imparted to the
growing mind--it was St. Michael's to whom that widespread glory was
given. St. Michael's of the heart of the town once again. No wonder that
St. Philip's of the side-street grieves in silence.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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