The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
And yet El Paso does not often take the situation very seriously. It is
almost an old story, and if the revolutionists will only be kind enough
to point their guns away from the U.S.A. they can blaze away as long as
they like and the ammunition lasts. In fact El Paso feels that as long
as the Mexican frontier battles have proper stage management they are
first-rate advertising attractions for the town--quite discounting mere
Mardi Gras or Portola or flower celebrations, Frontier or Round-up Days,
as well as its own simpler joys of horse-racing and bull-fighting. On
battle-days El Paso can ascend to its house-tops and get a rare thrill.
But when the atrocious marksmanship of ill-trained Mexicans does its
worst, and a few stray bullets go whistling straight across upon
American soil, El Paso grows angry. It demands of Washington if it
realizes that the U.S.A. is being bombarded--the fun of fighting dies
out in a moment.
San Antonio is a safer breeding ground for insurrection than is El Paso.
For one thing it is out of careless rifle-shot, and for another--well at
El Paso some Mexican troopers might come right across the silver Rio
Grande in a dry season, never wetting their feet or dreaming that they
were crossing the majestic river boundary, and pick up a few erring
citizens without much effort. There is a risk at El Paso that is not
present in San Antonio. Hence the bigger town--in its very atmosphere
emitting a friendly comfort toward plottings and plannings--is chosen.
You wish to come closer to the inner heart of the town. Very well then,
your guide leads you to the International Club which perches between the
narrow and important thoroughfare of Commerce street and one of the
interminable windings of the gentle San Antonio river. It was on the
roof of the International Club that Secretary Root was once given a
famous dinner. It is an institution frankly given "to the encouragement
of a friendly feeling between Mexico and the United States." It is
something more than that, however. It is a refuge and sort of harbor for
storm-tossed hearts and weary minds that perforce must do their thinking
in a tongue that, to us, is alien. Most of the time the newspaper men of
the town sit in the rear room of the club and look down across the tiny
river on to the quiet grounds of an oldtime monastery. They play their
pool and dominoes--two arts that seem hopelessly wedded throughout all
Texas. The International Club nods.
Suddenly a tall bronzed man, with _mustachios_, perhaps a little group
of Mexicans will come into the place. The pool and the dominoes stop
short. There are whisperings, flashy papers from Mexico city are
suddenly produced, maps are studied. One man has "inside information"
from Washington, another lays claim to mysterious knowledge up from the
President's palace of the southern capital, perhaps from the
constitutionalists along the frontier. There is a great deal of talk,
much mystery--after all, not much real information.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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