The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
Nowadays that quiet prospect is gone. A great waterside elevator of
concrete rises almost two hundred and fifty feet into the air from the
quay street; there are other elevators nearly as large and nearly as
sky-scraping, a variety of grim and covered piers and the man from a
boat amidstream hardly catches even a glimpse of Notre Dame or
Bonsecours. And Montreal gave up her glimpses of the river that she
loves so passionately, not without a note of regret; the market-men
gently protested that they could no longer sit on the portico of the
Bonsecours and see the brisk activity of the harbor. But Montreal
realizes the importance of her harbor to her. She is a thousand miles
inland from "blue water" and for five months of the year her great
strength giving river is tightly frozen; despite these obstacles she has
come within the past year to be the most efficient port in the world,
and among twelve or fourteen of the greatest. And commercial power is a
laurel branch to any British city.
There are other paths that lead from Place Viger Gardens--that lead on
and on and to no place in particular, but all of them are filled with
constant interest. The side streets of Montreal are fascinating. Their
newer architecture is apt to be fantastic, ofttimes incongruous, but
there are still many graystone houses in that simple British style that
is still found throughout the older Canada, all the way from Halifax to
the Detroit river. There are the inevitable maple trees along the curbs
that make Montreal more of a garden city than unobservant travelers are
apt to fancy it. And then there are the institutions, wide-spreading and
many-winged fellows, crowned with the inevitable domes and shielded from
the vulgarity of street traffic by high-capped walls. These walls are
distinctive of Montreal. Often uncompromising, save where some gentle
vine runs riot upon their lintels and laughs at their austerity, they
are broken here and there and again by tightly shut doors, doors that
open only to give forth on rare occasions; to let a somber file of nuns
or double one of cheaply uniformed children pass out into a sordid and
sin-filled world, and then close quickly once again lest some of its
contaminations might penetrate the gentle and unworldly place. And near
these great institutions are the inevitable churches, giant
affairs--parish churches still dominating the sky-line of a town which
is just now beginning to dabble in American skyscrapers, and standing
ever watchful, like a mother hen brooding and protecting her chicks.
These chance paths often lead to other squares than the Gardens of the
Place Viger--squares which in spring and in summer are bright green
carpets spread in little open places in the heart and length and
breadth of the city, and which are surrounded by more of the solid
graystone houses with the green blinds. When we go from Montreal we
shall remember it as a symphony of gray and green--remember it thus
forever and a day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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