The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
Even among the cosmopolitan folk of the Terrace in the shady late
afternoons, you could recognize him as such. He was apart from the
throng--a motley of bare-footed, brown-cloaked friars, full-skirted
priests, white nuns and gray and black, red-coated soldiers from the
Citadel to give a sharp note of color to the great promenade of Quebec,
millionaires real and would-be from New York, tourists of every sort
from all the rest of our land, funny looking English folk from the
yellow-funnelled _Empress_, which had just pulled in from Liverpool and
even now lay resting almost under the walls of old Quebec--he was
readily distinguished. To be with him was, of itself, a matter of
distinction.
[Illustration: Four Brethren upon the Terrace]
To walk the staid streets of the fascinating old town with him was a
privilege. Always the excursion led to new and unexpected turns; one day
up the narrow lane and through the impressive gates of the Citadel,
where a petty officer detained our American cameras and assigned us to a
mumbling rear private for perfunctory escort around the old place. It is
no longer tenanted by British troops. The last of these left forty years
ago. These red-coats are counterfeit; raw-boned boys from Canadian farms
being put through their military paces by a distant government which may
sometimes overlook, but not always. The Citadel as a military work is
tremendously out-of-date. Even as it now stands, it is almost a century
old, and that tells the story. The guns that have so wide a sweep and so
exquisite a view from the ramparts may look fear-inspiring, but the
ramparts are of stone and would be quickly vulnerable to modern naval
ordnance.
The gun that is unfailingly shown to Americans is a small field-piece
which is said to have been captured from us at Bunker Hill. Whereupon
our tourists, with a rare gift of repartee, always exclaim:
"Ah, you may have the gun, but we have the hill!"
And the military training of the young Canadian militiaman is so perfect
that he smiles politely in response. As a matter of fact, there is no
record of the fact that the gun was ever taken from the Americans,
although each little while there is a request from the States for its
return, which is always met with derision and scorn by the Canadians.
Politics in Our Lady of the Snows is almost entirely beyond the
understanding of an American.
* * * * *
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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