The Personality of American CitiesHungerford, Edward
History
The Personality of American Cities
Hungerford, Edward
Cities and towns -- United States; United States -- Description and travel; United States -- Social life and customs -- 1865-1918
After the White House, the Capitol is an endless source of delight to
those who have come to Washington from afar. A little squad of aged men,
who have a wolfish scent for tourists, act as its own particular
Reception Committee. These old men, between their cards and the sporting
extras of the evening papers, condescend to act as guides to the huge
building. We shall spare you the details of a trip through it with them.
It is enough to say that they are, in the spirit at least, sight-seeing
car lecturers grown into another generation. Their quarrels with the
Capitol police are endless. On one memorable occasion, a captain of that
really efficient police-force had decided to mark the famous whispering
stone in the old Hall of Representatives with a bit of paint. You can
read about that whispering stone in any of the tourist-guides which the
train-boy sells you on your way to Washington. Suffice it now to say
that when you have found this phonetic marvel and have stood upon it
your whisper will be heard distinctly in a certain far corner of the
gallery of the room. It is an acoustic freak of which the schoolboys out
in Racine can tell you better than I. And it is one of the prized assets
of the Capitol guides. The police captain forgot that when he set out to
mark it.
It came back to him the evening of that day, however, when the building
had been cleared. He chanced to cross the old hall and, looking for his
marker, found three of the guides upon their knees carefully restoring
it to absolute uniformity with its neighbors. And the captain nearly
lost his job. He had sought to interfere with prerogative, and
prerogative is a particularly sacred thing at the Federal capital--as we
shall see in a little while.
* * * * *
Late in a pleasant afternoon all Washington seems to walk in F street.
The little girls come out of the matinees, the bigger girls drift out
from the tea-rooms, there is a swirl of motor vehicles--gasoline and
electric--but the tourist knows not of all this. The gay flammeries of
Pennsylvania avenue hold him fascinated. Souvenir shops rivet him to
their counters. Post-cards--grave, humorous, abominable--urge themselves
upon him. But if all these fail--they have post-cards nowadays of the
high schools in each of the little Arizona towns--here upon a counter
are the little statuettes of pre-digested currency.
Mr. Lincoln in $10,000 of greenbacks. And yet that money today could not
buy one drop of gasoline, let alone an imported touring automobile, for
once it has passed through the government's macerating machine it is
only fit for the sculptor. Three thousand dollars go into a Benjamin
Harrison hat, fifteen thousand into a model of the Washington Monument
that looks as if it were about to melt beneath a summer sun. Twenty
thousand doll--stay, there is a limit to credulity. And you refuse to
buy without a signed certificate from the Treasury Department as to
these valuations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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