The Jesuits support and manage a fine observatory. And there is
a large botanical garden, now neglected; but it could easily be
made the finest in the world. The English Club, in the suburbs, is
noted for its hospitality and for the delightful personality of its
members. Most of the hotels are bad, with poor accommodations. The
Hotel de Oriente, however, is a noteworthy exception.
The police of the city are natives, and are under military
discipline. The department of police is known as the Municipal
Guard. From 10 o'clock at night until 5 o'clock in the morning
night-watchmen patrol the city.
One is struck by the number of carriages in the thoroughfares, drawn
by pretty ponies of mixed Chinese and Andalusian breed. There are
also many hacks to hire. The drivers, too, are as civil in address as
they are moderate in their charges. There are three days in the year
when the ponies are given absolute rest. These are Holy Wednesday,
Thursday, and Good Friday,--when no traffic is permitted, only the
Archbishop and the doctors being allowed to ride in carriages. On
these days the church-bells are muffled, and the people, dressed in
sombre black, walk solemnly in the various religious processions. A
vast concourse assembles in the several squares to await the toll that
shall announce the end of the fast and of this enforced abstinence
from labor and worldly care. As soon as the first stroke is given,
there is a mighty rush in every direction, a thousand ponies are
trotted through the streets, ten thousand natives renew their daily
traffic with clamorous zeal, which shows how feeble was the bond that
kept them under restraint.
On the streets of the city are many wayside native restaurants. Here
the employees of the huge tobacco factories come at noon for their
"quick lunch" or for a refreshing drink. Most of these establishments
are very primitive, and little more than rice, fruit, or meat is for
sale. The charges are the merest pittance. For two cents a sumptuous
meal can be had. It may, therefore, be understood that few people in
Manila go hungry.
The water-girls or the peddlers of milk or cocoa are also worthy of
mention; inasmuch as they, with their rude jars, have a most Oriental
look. One, too, is likely, almost any time, to encounter a religious
procession, such as The Feast of the Twelve Apostles, or The Feast
of Corpus Christi, when the companies of friars, in their long robes
of black, blue, white, or brown, alternate with long lines of solemn
natives dressed in their sombre clothes. There are, in fact, forty
holidays in the year, and, as each of these is distinguished by some
feast or religious ceremonial, it can readily be seen how large an
influence the Church has upon the people. The Archbishop is a greater
man than the Governor-General, and as he passes through the streets
in his carriage drawn by four white horses, every head is bared. There
are 4,000 priests in Manila alone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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