The bells in the campanile begin to toll slowly, and from the midst of
the crowd instantly comes a burst of glorious music. The village-band
stationed there renders effectively an operatic air as the natives
slowly enter the church. After all are seated, the priest preaches
a short sermon, full of pith and of pertinent suggestion about the
Saint whom the day commemorates. The audience is then dismissed with
a benediction; and to the lively music of some composer it files
leisurely out. The natives see nothing incongruous in the introduction
of operatic music into divine worship. They are moved to devotion
no less by the stirring strains of one of Sousa's military marches
or a languorous waltz of Strauss, than by the solemn Te Deums of the
Catholic ritual. To them all music is divine.
We stop a few minutes to watch the cura,--the parish priest,--as he
dispenses blessings to his devout parishioners, who now crowd round
him with every appearance of reverential affection.
Our friend the cura is a veritable father to his people. As he listens
to the ingenuous confidences of his flock, his face beams with that
rare benevolence born of godliness; there is a whisper of domestic
sorrow that he needs must hear, a story of happiness or a tale of
wrong. For each and all he has a word of kindly affection, and as he
sees us waiting near the entrance, he approaches with outstretched
hand and invites us to the grand procession in the evening.
The people have dispersed, and have returned to their homes. Already
the sun is high in the sky, pouring a deluge of heat upon the
landscape. From the horizon, mountain after mountain springs airily
into the heavens, their blue peaks suggesting a place of perpetual
coolness, upon which the eye loves to linger amid the oppressive
blaze of the tropic sun.
Surrounding the village are forests of majestic trees, of indescribable
grandeur, and of unparalleled magnificence. Among these the white
houses of the planters nestle peacefully.
Each house has its own tiny garden, fenced in with reeds, and forms
a miniature paradise, where are flowers of splendid hue, creepers
with purple blossoms, red-coral blooms, and trees of palm, mango,
orange, lanzon, santol, and giant bananas, whose rich fruits, in
giant clusters, tempt the eye of the beholder. Here the native is a
petty king: for his own little domain, for nine months of the year,
yields sufficient for his wants. Nature, indeed, gives him a golden
harvest for only the reaping.
We have been invited to spend the day with a well-to-do native planter,
who, at the conclusion of the service, has sought us out. He lives
on the outskirts of the village, and we are soon with him in his
carromata, speeding leisurely over the highway.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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