The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
As time advanced, and as the series of events attracted to Rome
almost all the riches of the world, the luxury of the table became
incredible.
Every thing was eaten--the grass-hopper and the ostrich, the
squirrel and the wild-boar--all imaginable vegetables were put in
requisition.
Armies and travellers put all the world in requisition. The most
distinguished Roman citizens took pleasure, not only in the
cultivation of fruits once known, such as pears, apples, etc., but
sought out things Lucullus never dreamed of. These importations
which naturally had a great influence, prove at least that the
impulse was general, that each one sought to contribute to the
enjoyment of those around him.
Our drinks were not the object of less attention, nor of less
attentive cares. The Romans were delighted with the wines of
Italy, Greece, and Sicily. As they estimated their value from the
year in which they were made, we may understand Cicero's much
abused line,
Oh tortuna tam, natura, me consule Roman.
This was not all. In consequence of an instinct hitherto referred
to, an effort was made to make them more highly perfumed, and
flowers, aromatics, etc., were infused. Such things which the
Romans called condita, must have had a very bad effect on the
stomach.
Thus the Romans came to dream of alcohol, which was not discovered
until long after they were born.
RESURRECTION OF LUCULLUS.
The glorious days of old might arise again, and nothing but a
Lucullus is needed, to bring this about. Let us fancy that any
man, known to be rich, should wish to celebrate any great act, and
give in this manner an occasion for a famous entertainment.
Let us suppose that he appeals to every one to adorn his
entertainment, and orders every possible resource to be prepared.
Let him make every imaginable preparation and Lucullus would be as
nothing compared with the civilized world as it is.
Both the Romans and the Athenians had beds to eat on. They
achieved the purpose but indirectly.
At first they used beds only for the sacred festivals offered to
the gods. The magistrates and principal men, adopted the custom,
and ere long, it became general and was preserved until in the
beginning of the fourth century.
These couches were at first, only boxes filled with straw, and
covered with skins. Gradually, however, they became more
luxurious, and were made of the most precious woods, inlaid with
ivory, and sometimes with gems. Their cushions were soft and their
covers magnificently embroidered.
People only laid down on the left elbow. Three usually slept
together.
This the Romans called lectisternium. It is not a very bad name.
In a physical point of view incubitation demands a certain
exhibition of power to preserve equlibrium, and is not without a
degree of pain; the elbow supporting an undue proportion of the
weight of the body.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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