The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
Of the various parts of a good dinner, many are indigenous, such
as butcher's meat, fowl and fruits. Others for instance, the beef-
stake, Welch rare-bit, punch, etc., were invented in England.
Germany, Spain, Italy, Holland, all contribute, as does India,
Persia, Arabia, and each pay their quota, in sour-krout, raisins,
parmera, bolognas, curacao, rice, sago, soy, potatoes, etc. The
consequence is, that a Parisian dinner is perfectly cosmopolitan.
[The translator here omits two Meditations, which refer
exclusively to Paris is 1825. Few Frenchmen NOW would understand
them, and none but a Frenchman could.]
PHYSIOLOGY OF TASTE
PART SECOND.
TRANSITION.
If I have been read with the attention I wished, all must have
seen that I had a double purpose in view. The first was to
establish the theoretical basis of Gastronomy, so as to place it
among sciences where it should doubtless be. The second was to
define gourmandise, and to separate this social character, as free
from gluttony and intemperance, with which it is often confounded.
This equivoque has been introduced by intolerant moralists, who,
deceived by too much zeal, saw excesses where there was only
innocent enjoyment. The treasures of creation were not made to be
trodden under the feet. It was afterwards propagated by
grammarians who defined it as blind men do, and who swore in verba
magistri.
It is time that such an error should cease, for now all the world
understand each other. This is true, for there never was a person
who would not confess to some tincture of gourmandise, and even
would not boast of it, none however would not look on gluttony as
an insult, just as they do on intemperance and voracity.
About these two cardinal points, it seems that what I have
described should satisfy all those who do not refuse conviction. I
might then lay down my pen and look on the task I have imposed on
myself as finished. As however, I approached those subjects which
belong to every thing, I remembered many things which it did not
seem to me fit to write, such as anecdotes, bon mots, recipes, and
other odd things.
Had they been put in the theoretical portion of the book they
would have taken the connection; place them all together, they
will not be disadvantageous because they contain some experimental
truths and useful explanations.
I have also inserted personal biography, but when I read them
over, I feel to a degree uneasy.
This anxiety originated in my last lectures and glossaries, which
are in the hands of every body. I think, however, that I may be
tranquil, having sheltered myself under the mantle of philosophy,
I insist that my enemies have uneasy consciences and sleep badly.
VARIETIES.
I.
L'OMELETTE DU CURE.
All know that twenty years ago, Madame R---- was the most
beautiful woman in Paris. All know that she was very charitable
and took an interest in the various enterprises, the object of
which was the alleviation of misery, perhaps greater in the
capital than elsewhere.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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