The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
What I say, experience has already proved. A pheasant thus stuffed
by Picard at La Grange [Footnote: Does he refer to La Fayette's
estate?] was brought on the table by the cook himself. It was
looked on by the ladies as they would have looked at one of Mary
Herbault's hats. It was scientifically tasted, and in the interim
the ladies eyes shone like stars, and their lips became coral.
I did more than this; I gave a similar proof to the judges of the
supreme court. They are aware that the toga is sometimes to be
laid aside, and I was able to show to several that good CHEER was
a fit companion and reward for the labors of the senate. After a
few moments the oldest judge uttered the word excellent. All
bowed, and the court adopted the decision. I had observed that the
venerable old men seemed to take great delight in smelling the
dish, and that their august brows were agitated by expressions of
extreme serenity, something like a half smile hanging on their
lips.
All this thing, however is naturally accounted for. The pheasant,
itself, a very good bird, had imbibed the dressing and the flavor
of the truffle and snipe. It thus becomes thrice better.
Thus of all the good things collected, every atom is appreciated
and the consequence is, I think the pheasant fit for the table of
a prince.
Parve, nec invideo, sine me liber, ibis in aulam.
VII.
GASTRONOMICAL INDUSTRY OF THE EMIGRES.
Toute Francaise, a ce que j'imagine,
Salt, bien ou mal faire, un peu de cuisine.
Belle Arsene, Act. III.
In a chapter written for the purpose, the advantages France
derived from gourmandise in 1815, were fully explained. This was
not less useful to emigres; all those, who had any alimentary
resources, received much benefit from it.
When I passed through Boston, I taught a cook, named Julien, who
in 1794 was in his glory, how to serve eggs with cheese. Julien
was a skilful lad, and had, he said, been employed by the
Archbishop of Bourdeaux. This was to the Americans a new dish, and
Julien in return, sent me a beautiful deer he had received from
Canada, which those I invited to do honour to it, thought
admirable.
Captain Collet also, in 1794 and 1795 earned much money by the
manufacture of ices and sherbets.
Women always take care to enjoy any pleasures which are new to
them. None can form an idea of their surprise. They could not
understand how it could remain so cold, when the thermometer was
at 26 [degrees] Reaumur.
When I was at Cologne, I found a Breton nobleman, who thought
himself very fortunate, as the keeper of a public house; and I
might multiply these examples indefinitely. I prefer however to
tell of a Frenchman, who became very rich at London, from the
skill he displayed in making salad.
He was a Limousin, and if I am not mistaken, was named Aubignac,
or Albignac.
Poor as he was, he went, however, one day to dine at one of the
first restaurants of London. He could always make a good dinner on
a single good dish.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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