The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
"There are now in this city at least three hundred rich men,
capitalists and financiers, retained at home by gout, colds, and
doctors. They are always busy to ascertain what will revive them
and send their valets out on voyages of discovery. Some one of
them will remark this asparagus, and it will be bought. It may be,
some pretty woman will pass with her lover, and say, 'what fine
asparagus. How well my servant dresses it.' The lover then does
not hesitate, and I will tell you a secret, that dear things are
sold more easily than cheap ones."
As she spoke two fat Englishmen passed us. They seemed struck at
once. One seized hold of the asparagus and without asking the
price paid for it, and as he walked away whistled "God save the
King."
"Monsieur," said Madame Chevet, "a thousand things like this
happen every day."
FONDUE.
Fondue is a soup dish, and consists only in frying eggs in cheese
in proportions revealed by experience. I will give the recipe. It
is a pleasant dish, quickly made and easily prepared for
unexpected guests. I refer to it here only for my peculiar
pleasure, and because it preserves the memory of things which the
old men of Belley recollect.
Towards the end of the 17th century M. Madot became bishop of
Belley, and took possession of the diocese.
Those to whom his reception had been confided had provided an
entertainment worthy of the occasion, and made use of all the
preparations then known in the kitchen, to welcome my lord.
There was an immense fondue, to which the prelate paid great
attention; to the surprise of all he ate it with a spoon, instead
of a fork, as people had been used to do.
All the guests looked at each other with a perceptible smile on
every face. A bishop from Paris, however, must know how to eat. On
the next day there was a great deal of gossip, and people that met
at the corners, said "Well did you see how our bishop ate his
fondue? I heard from a person who was present that he used a
spoon!"
The bishop had some followers, innovators who preferred the spoon,
but the majority preferred the fork, and an old grand-uncle of
mine used to laugh as if he would die, as he told how M. de Madot
ate fondue with a spoon.
RECIPE FOR FONDUE, COPIED FROM THE PAPERS OF M. TROLLET, BAILLI OF
MONDON IN BERNE.
Calculate the number of eggs in proportion to the guests.
Take one-third of the weight of Gruyere and one-sixth of the
weight of butter.
Beat the eggs and mingle them with the butter and cheese in a
casserole.
Put the kettle on a hot fire and stir it until the mixture is
perfect. Put in more or less salt in proportion as the cheese is
old or new. Serve it hot, with good wine, of which one should
drink much. The feast will see sights.
DISAPPOINTMENT.
All one day was quiet at the Ecu de France, between Bourg and
Bresse, when the sound of wheels was heard, and a superb English
berline drove up, on the box of which were two pretty Abigails,
wrapped in blue and red cloths.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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