The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
At about 11 P. M., I reached a little bourg or village called Mont
St. Vaudrey, and having first attended to my horse, was struck by
a spectacle no traveller ever saw without delight.
Before a fire was a spit covered with cock quails and the rails
that are always so fat. All the juice from the quails fell on an
immense rotie so built up that the huntsman's hand was apparent.
Then came one of those leverets, the perfume of which Parisians
have no faith in though they fill the room.
"Ah ha!" said I; "Providence has not entirely deserted me. Let us
scent this perfume and die afterwards."
Speaking to the landlord who, while I was making my examinations,
walked up and down the room, I said, "Mon cher, what can you give
us for dinner?"
"Nothing very good, Monsieur. You can have potatoes. The beans are
awful. I never had a worse dinner."
The landlord seemed to suspect the cause of my disappointment. I
said, however, "for whom is all this game kept?"
"Alas, Monsieur," said he, "it is not mine but belongs to some
lawyers and judges who have been here several days on a business
which concerns a very rich old lady. They finished yesterday, and
wish to celebrate the event by a revolt."
"Monsieur," said I, "be pleased to say that a gentleman asks the
favor of being permitted to dine with them, that he will pay his
portion of the expense, and also be much obliged to them."
He left me and did not return, but after a few minutes a little
fat man entered, who hovered around the kitchen, lifted up the
covers and disappeared.
"Ah, ha!" said I. The tiler has come to look at me. I began to
hope, for I knew my appearance was not repulsive. My heart beat
quickly as a candidate's does after the ballot-box is opened, and
before he knows the result, when the landlord told me the
gentlemen only waited for me to sit down.
I went at once, and was received in the most flattering manner.
The dinner was glorious, I will not describe it, but only refer to
an admirable fricassee of chicken not often seen in such
perfection in the country. It had so many truffles that it would
have revived an old Titan.
We sang, danced, etc., and passed the evening pleasantly.
[The translator here omits half a dozen songs, which are
essentially French, and which no one can do justice to in another
tongue.]
H. ... DE P ...
I believe I am the first person who ever conceived the idea of a
gastronomical academy. I am afraid, however, I was a little in
advance of the day, as people may judge by what took place fifteen
years afterwards.
The President, H. de P., the ideas of whom braved every age and
era, speaking to three of the most enlightened men of his age,
(Laplace, Chaptal, and Berthollet,) said "I look in the history of
the discovery of a new dish, which prolongs our pleasures, as far
more important than the discovery of a new star."
I shall never think science sufficiently honored until I see a
cook in the first class of the institute.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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