The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
Now, then, let any man who has indulged too much in the cup of
volupte; let every man who has passed in toil too much of the time
when he should have slept; let every man of mind, who finds his
faculties temporarily decay; every man who finds the air humid and
the atmosphere painful to breathe; let every man who has a fixed
idea which would deprive him of the liberty of thought; let them
each take a demi litre of chocolate ambre, (sixty grains of amber
to the kilogramme), and they will see wonders.
In my way of distinguishing things, I have called this chocolate
des affliges; because in all the conditions I have referred to,
there is something very like affliction.
Very good chocolate is made in Spain; one is indisposed to send
thither for it, for all manufacturers are not equally skillful,
and when it comes it has to be used as it is.
Italian chocolates do not suit the French, for the cocoa is burned
too much. This makes the chocolate bitter, and deprives it of its
nourishment. A portion of the bean has been reduced to carbon.
Chocolate having become common in France, all sought to learn how
to make it. Few, however, approximated to perfection for the art
is not easy.
In the first place it was necessary to know good cocoa and to use
it in all its purity. There is no first quality case that has not
its inferiorities, and a mistaken interest often causes damaged
beans to be put in, which should have been rejected. The roasting
of the cocoa is also a delicate operation, and requires a tact
very like inspiration. Some have the faculty naturally, and are
never mistaken.
A peculiar talent is necessary to regulate the quantity of sugar
which enters into the composition. It is not invariable and a
matter of course, but varies in proportion to the aroma of the
bean and the degree of torrefaction.
The trituration and mixture do not demand less care, and on them
depends the greater or less digestibility of chocolate.
Other considerations should also preside over the choice and
quantity of aromas, which should not be the same with chocolate
made for food and those taken as luxuries. It should also be
varied according if the mass is intended to receive vanilla or
not. In fine, to make good chocolate a number of very subtle
equations must be resolved, and which we take advantage of without
suspecting that they ever took place.
For a long time machines have been employed for the manufacture of
chocolate. We think this does not add at all to its perfection,
but it diminishes manipulation very materially, so that those who
have adopted it should be able to sell chocolate at a very low
rate. [Footnote: One of those machines is now in operation in a
window in Broadway, New York. It is a model of mechanical
appropriateness.] They, however, usually sell it more dearly, and
this fact demonstrates that the true spirit of commerce has not
yet entered France; the use of machines should be as advantageous
to the consumer as to the producer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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