The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
He compares the different states of society, in which good cheer
is attended to, with those where no attention is paid to it, and
has passed through every scale of the ladder. He has compared the
various portions of Paris, in which people were more or less
comfortable. All know that in this respect there is extreme
difference, as for instance between the Faubourg St. Antoine and
the Chaussee d' Antin.
The doctor extended his research to the departments of France, and
compared the most sterile and fertile together, and always
obtained a general result in favor of the diminution of mortality,
in proportion universally as the means of subsistence improve.
Those who cannot well sustain themselves will be at least wise, to
know that death will deliver them soon.
The two extremes of this progression are, that in the most highly
favored ranks of life but one individual in fifty dies, while of
those who are poorer four do.
Those who indulge in good cheer, are rarely, or never sick. Alas!
they often fall into the domain of the faculty, who call them good
patients: as however they have no great degree of vitality, and
all portions of their organization are better sustained, nature
has more resources, and the body incomparably resists destruction.
This physiological truth may be also sustained by history, which
tells us that as often as impervious circumstances, such as war,
sieges, the derangement of seasons, etc., diminish the means of
subsistence, such times have ever been accompanied by contagious
disease and a great increase of mortality.
The idea of Lafarge would beyond a doubt have succeeded in Paris,
if those who had advanced it had introduced into their
calculations the truths developed by Doctor Villermet.
They calculated mortality according to Buffoon's tables, and those
of Parcieux and others, all of which were based on the aggregate
of all classes and conditions. Those who made the estimate,
however, forgot the dangers of infancy, indulged in general
calculations, and the speculation failed.
This may not have been the only, hut it was the principal cause.
For this observation, we are indebted to the Professor Pardessus.
M. de Belloy, archbishop of Paris, had a slight appetite, but a
very distinct one. He loved good cheer and I have often seen his
patriarchal face lighten up at the appearance of any choice dish.
Napoleon always on such occasions paid him deference and respect.
MEDITATION XIII.
GASTRONOMICAL TESTS.
IN the preceding chapter, we have seen that the distinctive
characteristics of those who have more pretension than right to
the honors of gourmandise, consists in the fact, that, at the best
spread table, their eyes are dull and their face inanimate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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