The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental GastronomyBrillat-Savarin
Philosophy
The Physiology of Taste; Or, Transcendental Gastronomy
Brillat-Savarin
Gastronomy
The pleasure of eating is a peculiar sensation directed to the
satisfaction of a necessity. The pleasures of the table is a
reflected sensation, originating in various facts, places, things
and persons.
We share with animals in the pleasure of eating. They and we have
hunger which must he satisfied.
It is peculiar to the human race, for it supposes a predisposition
for food, for the place of meeting, and for guests.
The pleasures of the table exact, if not hunger, at least
appetite. The table is often independent of hoth the one and the
other.
This we may see at every entertainment.
At the first course every one eats and pays no attention to
conversation; all ranks and grades are forgotten together in the
great manufacture of life. When, however, hunger begins to be
satisfied, reflection begins, and conversation commences. The
person who, hitherto, had been a mere consumer, becomes an amiable
guest, in proportion as the master of all things provides him with
the means of gratification.
EFFECTS.
The pleasures of the table afford neither ravishing pleasure,
ecstasy, nor transport, but it gains in intensity what it loses in
duration. It is the more valuable because it exposes us to all
other gratifications and even consoles us for their loss.
After a good dinner body and soul enjoy a peculiar happiness.
Physically, as the brain becomes refreshed, the face lightens up,
the colors become heightened, and a glow spreads over the whole
system.
Morally, the mind becomes sharpened, witticisms circulate. If La
Farre and Saint Aulaire descend to posterity with the reputation
of spiritual authors, they owe it especially to the fact that they
were pleasant guests.
Besides, there are often found collected around the same table,
all the modifications of society which extreme sociability has
introduced among us: love, friendship, business, speculation,
power, ambition, and intrigue, all enhance conviviality. Thus it
is that it produces fruits of all imaginable flavors.
ACCESSORIES.
An immediate consequence of all these antecedents is that human
industry has toiled to augment the duration of the gratifications
of the table.
Poets complain that the throat is too short for the uses of
degustation, and others lament the want of capacity of the
stomach. Some even regret that digestion is accomplished in a
single act and not divided into two.
This was but an extreme effort to amplify the enjoyments of taste;
in this respect, however, it is impossible to exceed the limits
imposed by nature, and an appeal was made to accessories, which
offered more latitude.
Vases and goblets were crowned with flowers; crowns were
distributed to the guests, and dinners served beneath the vault of
heaven, in groves, and amid all the wonders of nature.
Music and song were made to increase the pleasures of the table.
Thus while the king of the Pheacians ate, the singer Phemius sang
the praises of the wars and warriors of other days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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