Albemarle opens his mouth towards the setting sun. His distended jaws
form a great bay, which Narborough, his tongue, divides into halves,
one whereof is called Weather Bay, the other Lee Bay; while the
volcanic promontories, terminating his coasts, are styled South Head
and North Head. I note this, because these bays are famous in the
annals of the Sperm Whale Fishery. The whales come here at certain
seasons to calve. When ships first cruised hereabouts, I am told, they
used to blockade the entrance of Lee Bay, when their boats going round
by Weather Bay, passed through Narborough channel, and so had the
Leviathans very neatly in a pen.
The day after we took fish at the base of this Round Tower, we had a
fine wind, and shooting round the north headland, suddenly descried a
fleet of full thirty sail, all beating to windward like a squadron in
line. A brave sight as ever man saw. A most harmonious concord of
rushing keels. Their thirty kelsons hummed like thirty harp-strings,
and looked as straight whilst they left their parallel traces on the
sea. But there proved too many hunters for the game. The fleet broke
up, and went their separate ways out of sight, leaving my own ship and
two trim gentlemen of London. These last, finding no luck either,
likewise vanished; and Lee Bay, with all its appurtenances, and without
a rival, devolved to us.
The way of cruising here is this. You keep hovering about the entrance
of the bay, in one beat and out the next. But at times—not always, as
in other parts of the group—a racehorse of a current sweeps right
across its mouth. So, with all sails set, you carefully ply your tacks.
How often, standing at the foremast head at sunrise, with our patient
prow pointed in between these isles, did I gaze upon that land, not of
cakes, but of clinkers, not of streams of sparkling water, but arrested
torrents of tormented lava.
As the ship runs in from the open sea, Narborough presents its side in
one dark craggy mass, soaring up some five or six thousand feet, at
which point it hoods itself in heavy clouds, whose lowest level fold is
as clearly defined against the rocks as the snow-line against the
Andes. There is dire mischief going on in that upper dark. There toil
the demons of fire, who, at intervals, irradiate the nights with a
strange spectral illumination for miles and miles around, but
unaccompanied by any further demonstration; or else, suddenly announce
themselves by terrific concussions, and the full drama of a volcanic
eruption. The blacker that cloud by day, the more may you look for
light by night. Often whalemen have found themselves cruising nigh that
burning mountain when all aglow with a ball-room blaze. Or, rather,
glass-works, you may call this same vitreous isle of Narborough, with
its tall chimney-stacks.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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