It hung upon an impending cliff, sheltered on two sides by tangled
thickets, and half-screened from view in front by juttings of the rude
stairway, which climbed the precipice from the sea. Built of canes, it
was thatched with long, mildewed grass. It seemed an abandoned
hay-rick, whose haymakers were now no more. The roof inclined but one
way; the eaves coming to within two feet of the ground. And here was a
simple apparatus to collect the dews, or rather doubly-distilled and
finest winnowed rains, which, in mercy or in mockery, the night-skies
sometimes drop upon these blighted Encantadas. All along beneath the
eaves, a spotted sheet, quite weather-stained, was spread, pinned to
short, upright stakes, set in the shallow sand. A small clinker, thrown
into the cloth, weighed its middle down, thereby straining all moisture
into a calabash placed below. This vessel supplied each drop of water
ever drunk upon the isle by the Cholos. Hunilla told us the calabash,
would sometimes, but not often, be half filled overnight. It held six
quarts, perhaps. “But,” said she, “we were used to thirst. At sandy
Payta, where I live, no shower from heaven ever fell; all the water
there is brought on mules from the inland vales.”
Tied among the thickets were some twenty moaning tortoises, supplying
Hunilla’s lonely larder; while hundreds of vast tableted black
bucklers, like displaced, shattered tomb-stones of dark slate, were
also scattered round. These were the skeleton backs of those great
tortoises from which Felipe and Truxill had made their precious oil.
Several large calabashes and two goodly kegs were filled with it. In a
pot near by were the caked crusts of a quantity which had been
permitted to evaporate. “They meant to have strained it off next day,”
said Hunilla, as she turned aside.
I forgot to mention the most singular sight of all, though the first
that greeted us after landing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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