The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.Wells, Nathaniel Armstrong
Islamic
The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.
On my asking for wine, the hostess requested I would furnish her with
two _quartos_ (one halfpenny) with which she purchased me a pint, at the
tavern next door. The host of the posada, who was seated next me, and a
friend at the opposite corner of the fire-place, favoured me, during my
meal, with their reminiscences of a battle fought here, during the
Peninsular war. They had not heard of the English having taken any part
in the quarrel, with the exception of the old woman, who recollected
perfectly the name of Wellington, and pronounced it as perfectly, but
thought he had been a Spanish general. They described the battle as a
hard fought one, and won by the French, who marched up the hill with
fixed bayonets, as the old host, almost blind, described by assuming the
attitude of a soldier jogging up a hill, and dislodged the Spanish
garrison from the castle.
I could have willingly passed a week in this village, so exciting are
the remains of Arab manners to the curiosity. The name of the place had
already raised my expectations, but the blind landlord of the posada
unconsciously won my attachment from the first moment. No sooner was I
seated, than, leaning towards me, and patting my arm to draw my
attention, he pointed to his two eyes. At first I was at a loss to
understand him; but soon discovered that he was desirous of knowing
whether I was sufficiently versed in the mysteries of Esculapius, to
prescribe for the relief of his suffering organs. To this trait he soon
added one still more characteristic, by actually speaking of Toledo, by
its Moorish appellation Tolaite. Had he worn a turban, sat cross-legged
and offered me coffee and a pipe, I should not have been more taken by
surprise, than by this Arab expression assailing the ear, in the heart
of Spain, ten miles from the town itself, in which the name had probably
not been uttered for three or four centuries.
The builder of the castle of Almonacid must have placed more confidence
in the difficulties of approach, than in the solidity of his structure.
The walls are partly of stone, and partly of _tapia_, or earth. There
only remain, the exterior wall, enclosing an area of about sixty to
seventy yards in diameter, and of a pentagonal form; and, in the centre,
the keep, a quadrangular tower, somewhat higher than the rest of the
buildings. There are no traces of living apartments. At each of the five
angles of the outer wall, is a small tower, and others in the centres of
some of the fronts; those looking to the west are circular, the rest
square. The nearer view of this ruin causes disappointment, as it
appears to have been a slovenly and hasty construction: but, at a
distance, its effect is highly picturesque.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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