The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.Wells, Nathaniel Armstrong
Islamic
The Picturesque Antiquities of Spain: Described in a series of letters, with illustrations representing Moorish palaces, cathedrals, and other monuments of art, contained in the cities of Burgos, Valladolid, Toledo, and Seville.
At Madrid, the cafés have each its political colour; except that called
del Principe, after the adjoining theatre. In this, politics are less
characterised, literature having here taken up her quarters. It is
probable that she is a less profitable customer, being habitually less
thirsty. Accordingly, on putting your head into the door, you see a
saloon far more brilliantly lighted up than the others; but the
peripatetic doctrines seem to prevail. Few persons are seated at the
tables; and instead of the more profitable wear and tear of broken
glasses, the proprietor probably finds substituted a thankless annual
item for worn out floors. In the same street there is a club; but this
is an exotic importation and on the exclusive plan, not quite of London,
but of the Paris _cercles_.
In the cafés of Toledo, on the days of _fiesta_, the fair sex
predominates, especially in summer. The great resort is, however, the
Zocodover, from nine to ten in the evening. This little irregularly
formed _plaza_ is crowded like an assembly-room, and possesses its rows
of trees, although a respectable oak would almost fill it.
A soirée has occasionally been known to be given in Toledo, but it is an
occurrence of much rarity, and mostly occasioned by some unusual
event,--the arrival of a public singer, or, still more unusual, a newly
made fortune. The other evening I was admitted to one, the pretext for
which was a wedding. This ceremony takes place at the residence of the
bride, and although a subsequent formality is necessary in the Church,
its delay does not defer the validity of the union, nor its
consummation. The wedding-day arrived, the families and friends of both
parties assemble at eight in the evening.
The bride was distinguishable by a white veil or _mantilla_ in the
middle seat of a sofa, between her mother and sister, who rose to
receive the guests. A narrow table had been dressed up into a temporary
altar, and furnished with a crucifix and candles. All the party being
arrived, a priest left his chair, and entered an adjoining room to robe;
on his reappearance the company rose and flocked round the bride and
bridegroom, who stood together before the priest, doing penance each
with a long wax-light in the right hand, held in a muslin handkerchief.
The ceremony lasts about ten minutes without any change of posture. The
priest departs to unrobe; the miserable bride and blushing bridegroom
receive felicitations; and all resume their seats, and look at each
other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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