I will now describe to you my visit, with the prince, to the most
remarkable shrine in Egypt. While the worship of Osiris, at On, is a
series of splendid pageantries, but little differing from the gorgeous
sun-worship which you witnessed some years ago at Baalbec, the rites
of Apis are as solemn and severe as the temple in which they are
celebrated is grand and majestic.
The temple itself is a massive and imposing edifice, of reddish
Elephantine stone. It is of vast proportions, and the effect produced
is that of a mountain of rock hewn into a temple, as travellers say
temples are cut out of the face of cliffs in Idumea-Arabia. Its
expression is majesty and grandeur. It occupies the whole of one side
of the vast square described by me in my last letter.
As we were about to ascend to the gate, I was startled by a loud and
menacing cry from many voices, and, looking around, perceived a Tyrian
mariner, recognized by me as such by his dress, who was flying across
the square with wings of fear. A crowd, which momentarily increased,
pursued him swiftly with execrations and cries of vengeance! As he
drew near, I noticed that he was as pale as a corpse. Seeing that he
was a Phœnician, I felt interested in him, and by a gesture drew
him towards me. He fell at my feet, crying--"Save me, O my prince!"
"What hast thou done?" I demanded.
"Only killed one of their cats, my lord!"
The throng came rushing on, like a stormy wave, uttering fearful
cries.
"May I try and protect him, O Remeses," I asked, for I knew that, if
taken, he would be slain for destroying one of their sacred animals.
"I will see if I can; but I fear my interposition will not be heeded
in a case like this," he replied. At the same time he deprecatingly
waved his hand to the infuriated populace, which had in a few moments
increased to a thousand people.
"No, not even for the prince! He has killed a sacred animal. By our
laws he also must die. We will sacrifice him to the gods!"
In vain I entreated, and Remeses interposed. The wretched man was torn
from our presence by as many hands as could seize him, thrown down the
steps of the temple, and trampled upon by the furious crowd, until
nothing like a human shape remained. The formless mass was then
divided into pieces, and carried to a temple where numerous sacred
cats are kept, in order to be given to them to devour. Such is the
terrible death they inflict upon one who by accident kills a cat or an
ibis!
"The power of the State is weak when contending with the mad strength
of superstition," remarked Remeses, as we entered the temple between
two statues of brazen bulls. Entering through a majestic doorway, we
came into an avenue of vast columns, the size of which impressed me
with awe. The temple was originally erected to Pthah, anciently the
chief deity of Memphis, and dedicated in the present reign to the
sacred bull, whose apartment is the original adytum of the temple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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