The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
It would seem strange that there should be this surf, not only with
a perfect calm, but with a glass-like sea. There was, however, where
we lay, a slight heaving of the water; and these heaves, as they bore
landwards, became, within a mile of the coast, billows, and then dashed
upon it with the extremest fury, as if the Atlantic, in contact with
Africa, required not the aid of wind, but shook it with the spontaneous
heaves of its majestic breast. We lay for hours with the same marks
on--as if we had been a rock. The tide rises and falls upon the shore,
but does not run along the land. The Atlantic merely heaves up and
down, but shifts not its place. It is met in front by a straight line;
and the tidal currents of the coast of Europe are stopped at the
great indraught of the Straits of Gibraltar; so that to the southward
there extends a region of some hundred miles of dead water. Hence the
violence of the action of the waves upon the shore. With our indented
and slanting coasts, there is always a current running in front of the
land, which serves as a breakwater against the effects of the rise and
fall of the tide: here there is no such protection. In like manner may
be explained the incessant disturbance of the Bay of Biscay: the horns
break the tides along the shore, and the Atlantic surges in upon the
congested waters. Below Rabat a current begins to be sensible; it runs
south. At Mogadore it reaches the speed of three knots an hour. There
are combined to produce it, the sweep of the back eddy of the Atlantic,
and the nightly gales which blow from the sea into the interior of
Africa to supply the rarification of the Great Desert. This nightly
indraught begins only at the province of Sus; to the north the ordinary
land and sea winds prevail. In these latitudes it is calm at sun-rise
and sun-set. The breeze freshens by night from the land, by day from
the sea--the former breathing a gentle gale, the second reaching to a
top-gallant breeze.
The sand is not blown up from the sea, as some have supposed, nor down
from the Desert. In travelling over it, you would suppose that you were
crossing a rocky country.
On the coast its structure is exposed, and there it appears to be a
bank of sand, with a coast of stone. Worn by the waves, the unsupported
rock comes tumbling down, and the fragments often sticking on the edge
form the breakwater. The “conformably overlying” rock, is an induration
of the sand by oxide of iron; sand, newly exposed, immediately begins
to crust.
This bank must have been left by the waters of the deluge, escaping
westward, charged with the sand of the interior. This idea was first
suggested to me by the deposits on both sides of the rock of Gibraltar.
The sand blocks up to its very roofs a cavern which opens to the
eastward.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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