The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
This city was in ruins before those buildings arose, which are
considered the models of that style: the date of its fall is that of
the erection of Westminster Hall,--itself the work of a pupil of the
Saracens. The walls of the present city of Rabat, which signifies camp,
stand on the lines of the camp of Jacob when he was besieging it.
Whilst I was making a sketch of the gate, the Moors came up beseeching
me on their account not to enter; they proposed to go in and report:
they soon came out, exclaiming, “Holy Place;” “Saints’ Tombs.” I cut
the matter short by passing the portal and ascending a stair that led
to the top of the gate. The prospect thence was enchanting: the ground
broke away immediately in front as we looked eastward, the masses
of red ruin cresting the heights on both sides, and running down to
the river. Beyond spread the plain of emerald green, with the river
meandering through it, and the landscape closed with long waves of
sandhills of olive green on their summits and red and yellow on their
broken faces. I saw not a soul, and was making myself merry with the
fears of our conductors, when the alarm was sounded by the dogs, and
presently two old men rushed at us, frantic with rage;--fortunately
they had no arms.
Of our Moors, one only retained the faculty of speech. He endeavoured
to explain that I had the Sultan’s permission, on which one of the old
men (the other had gone to raise the hue and cry) became wilder than
before. He would shoot the Sultan; the Sultan dared not give an order
there, nor enter the place except with bare feet. The soldier threw
his cap on the ground, knelt down, and jumped up; tried to kiss his
head, his hands, his feet, his clothes. I left them so engaged, quietly
returning towards Rabat. At the gate Selam overtook me, calling out,
“Run, run! wild man gone for gun.” We had a fair start, but I could
not condescend to hurry beyond a steady pace: Selam relieved himself
by mumbling dismal sounds close to my ear, in his broken English: “You
bring me and other Moors into trouble; I do your bidding instead of
master’s and Sultan’s, and be at Baïram in my new clothes. I be shot
outside like a dog, or flogged inside like a Jew.” At every moment we
expected to meet a crowd returning, for the old fanatic, on reaching
the town, could raise the people upon us in an instant. However, the
distance was soon traversed, and before he hove in sight we had reached
the gate. It was locked! We then hastened along the wall to the right,
expecting to get in by the next gate--there was none! We came to the
steep edge of the river, and there we were completely hemmed in. At
that moment, our pursuers, now consisting of several armed men, came in
sight; when a boat with soldiers and horses shoved up close in shore,
to drop down the current to Salee.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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