The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
A man may thus travel and find food wherever he stretches out his
hand, or lays him down to rest. I do not say it is a very agreeable
diet, perhaps not a very nutritious one; but still here are roots,
and plants, and glands, which will sustain life without the aid of
cookery; and populations might spread and multiply, sustained by the
spontaneous gifts of the earth. The first peopling of the globe remains
the greatest of wonders; for what can be to us more unaccountable than
the ease of their travels, the order of their society, the distinctness
of their character, the rapidity of their growth?
The Douar for which we were bound was beyond the hills. We had,
therefore, to cross them, and from the summit the view opened to the
eastward a totally different scene. From this height the country behind
looked like a swelling sea--before us it was all in heaps. No vacant
space and no rocky side, but as if earth had been carted to the spot by
tunnelling giants, and shot out there.
We found the Douar perched on the summit of a knoll;--the circle of
tents looked like a diadem upon its brow. Our tent was pitched in the
centre, that is, at the top. As soon as it was in order, our Tibi came
to bid us welcome: he was a simple, sedulous man, and from the first to
the last moment was just the same. They paraded us round the circle,
and we were passed from group to group to be examined, patted, and
discussed. The round of visits ended at the Sheik, and I was ushered
in among his three wives;--and here was a busy scene. The tent, though
I speak from recollection, was little short of forty feet in length
and twenty in width; the cross-bar supporting it in the middle might
be ten or twelve feet high; the covering swept down, so that towards
the extremities you had to crouch or creep. In the centre and around
were piled up stores of provisions, clothing, and the like, arranged
for the convenience of sitting or sleeping. There were three or four
small fires, chiefly of embers, on which were boiling large brown jars
with long necks, as if preparing for some great feast. The principal
wife would soon by her appearance have arrested my attention, had
she allowed me or any one else to be ignorant of her presence and
authority. She was comely, bold, haughty, supple in body, dexterous of
hand. Seated within reach of the two or three fires, she was proceeding
to dispose of the cooking viands, which, with a huge ladle, she
heaped up in corresponding dishes. She was giving her orders without
intermitting her work, and all the work of the tent--culinary, at
least,--seemed to pass through her hands.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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