The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1Urquhart, David
History
The pillars of Hercules : $b or, A narrative of travels in Spain and Morocco in 1848; vol. 1
Urquhart, David
Morocco -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
To put on the haïk, it is dropped on the ground; one corner is lifted
and brought over the left shoulder, and held upon the breast by the
right hand. Then, by stepping backwards, the fold passes behind, and
is brought under the right arm round in front. Another step across it,
and it is behind again; then taken by both hands outstretched, it is
brought over the head, measured so as to be left hanging low enough on
both sides for the play of the arms. The end is then thrown over the
left shoulder and hangs down the back. There are no ties, no buttons,
no separate parts: the drapery is wrapped round with the sole fastening
of its own folds. Dispensing with so many adjuncts, it supersedes all
intermediaries. It is made under the tent; there is no tailor wanted;
no shopman, no dealer, required; this is the link between a national
costume and a people’s well-being. The Spaniard’s cloak, of which the
style consists in the lap thrown over the left shoulder, is a mixture
of the haïk and the bornoos: to this day the Spaniard looks upon the
want of a cloak as the want of decent covering;--to be without a cloak
is, as it were, to be naked.
Great as is the distance between the attire of Europe and that of
the East, not greater is the distance between its magnificence and
the dignity of that of Numidia. The excellence of all other costumes
resides in their own composition. There is not one which does not
strain or coerce the human frame into its own design. The excellence
of this is, that it follows nature, neither designing to embellish nor
endeavouring to conceal; it reveals, but does not expose; it covers,
but does not disguise.
The antique is, however, only present where all the subsidiary garments
disappear, and the haïk remains the sole clothing: there protrudes
an arm and part of a leg, or the breast is heaved, or sometimes the
whole outline of one side is visible; for the drapery is shifted in
all conceivable ways, and according to their occupations; so that
there are passing before you, and called up, as you look around, all
the celebrated statues or groups of antiquity. One of these, which
has remained most strongly in my eye, occurred in a boar hunt. While
watching in my cover, a rustling called my attention to a neighbouring
clump, and there stood an Arab; his gun resting on an edge of rock,
his haïk unwound from both shoulders, and secured by a cord of plaited
palmetto over the shoulder, as is often seen in the ancient statues;
the drapery falling behind and extending over the ground; the left limb
advanced, slightly bent, and exposed to mid-thigh, where the drapery
swept to the ground. Here was a statue, and yet a man; not a model set
up in a studio, and the form of the antique adapted to a modern musket!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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