The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
_Se non è vero è ben trovato_--the madeleine still remains to gladden
the traveller. They bring it now in little boxes of a dozen--flat on
the top and grooved like a shell underneath, the colour a rich golden
brown--as the train halts for a moment at the town on the Meuse where
Cardinal de Retz wrote his memoirs.
One of the earliest of German cook-books, published at Strassburg
in 1516, and now of the utmost rarity, bears for its title
"Kuchenmeisterey," or the mastery of cake-making. Perchance were one
to turn its faded Gothic leaves, some forgotten master-stroke of the
baker might reveal itself, to vie with the madeleine in popularity
and add to the already endless list of farinaceous _Leckerbissen_ and
_Frauenessen_, wherein the Germans have no superiors.
The story of the madeleine suggests that of the Vienna roll, which,
it is said, owes its origin to the investment of Vienna by the Turks.
During the protracted siege of the city, when the town had become
almost reduced to starvation and the position of the enemy was unknown,
a baker was making his last batch of bread. His little son, who had
been amusing himself with his marbles and drum, had gone to bed,
leaving a marble on the drum-head. The baker kept on with his baking
and attending to his ovens, sitting down between times to meditate
on his probable fate when the final loaf was gone, and gleaming
cangiars and ferocious janizaries had begun their work of carnage.
Suddenly his attentive ear was arrested by an unaccustomed vibratory
sound proceeding from the drum, while his eye perceived a continuous
dancing movement of the marble. Soon it became apparent to him that
the vibration was caused by forces working on the fortifications
without--the steady pounding of mattock and pickaxe--and that the
undermining of the walls had begun almost at his door. At once his
loaves were forgotten, and, hastening to spread the alarm, the enemy
was attacked unawares and successfully routed. The following day the
baker was summoned before the emperor.
"What reward do you claim for your services?--you have saved the city,"
said the emperor.
"I would serve the bread for the palace," replied the artist of the
loaves, "and I would have my rolls shaped like the Crescent we have
conquered."
A favourite convivial song of the Fatherland, with its rollicking
strain, may not be omitted from a German Speisekarte. The words are
by a former minister of education, von Muehler, of Prussia; the music
that of the dance "La Madrilena." It should be sung in chorus and led
by one who is light on his feet and a master of the side-step, with
the sonorous instrumentation of viols and horns to lend it additional
spirit and swing:
BEDENKLICHKEITEN
(Heinrich von Muehler, 1842. Bis 1872 Preussischer Cultusminister.)
[Illustration:
_Munter._ Spanischer Tanz: La Madrilena.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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