A haunch of venison, accompanied by a gherkin sauce. A boiled turbot. A leg of mutton _présalé_, done _à la provençale_. A truffled turkey. Early green peas. _Remarks._--"Ah, my dear friend, what a delightful sight! This is truly a wedding-feast." Third Series. For a Presumed Income of 30,000 Francs or more (Riches). A fowl of about seven pounds stuffed with truffles till it becomes almost round. An enormous Strassburg _pâté de foie gras_, in the shape of a bastion. A large Rhein _carp à la Chambord_, richly dressed and decorated. Truffled quails, with marrow, spread on buttered toast _au basilic_. A river pike larded, stuffed, and smothered in a cream of crayfish _secundum artem_. A pheasant done to perfection, with his tail-feathers stuck in, lying on toast _à la Sainte-Alliance_. A hundred early asparagus, each half an inch thick, with sauce _à l'osmazôme_. Two dozen ortolans _à la provençale_, as described in some of the cookery-books already mentioned. A pyramid of vanilla and rose meringues--a test sometimes useless unless in the case of ladies and abbés. _Remarks._--"Ah, my dear sir (or my lord), what a genius that cook of yours is! It is only at your table that one meets such dishes." In order that any test should produce its full effect, the author advises that it be served plenteously, the rarest of dishes losing its influence when not in abundant proportion, as the first impression it produces on the guests is naturally checked by the fear of being stingily served, or, in certain cases, of being obliged to refuse out of politeness--a conclusion one may see verified frequently at a European table-d'hôte when the parsimonious though perhaps extortionate landlord deals out the roast or the fish through the intermedium of the maligned garçon or Kellner. There are certain dishes, nevertheless, whose zest consists in their very daintiness and lack of exuberance, such as numerous entrées, in the savouring of which even the forks and knives should be small and the proportions of the dish be restricted rather than augmented. But the rules in the "Physiology" as to a perfect dinner still hold good in the main, and will well bear reiteration: "Let the number of guests not exceed twelve, so that the conversation may be constantly general. "Let them be so chosen that their occupations are various, their tastes analogous, and with such points of contact that one need not have recourse to that odious formality of introductions. "Let the dining-room be brilliantly lighted, the cloth as white as snow, and the temperature of the room from sixty to sixty-eight degrees Fahrenheit. "Let the men be witty and not pedantic, and the women amiable without being too coquettish.