The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
Turning the leaves of the "Physiology," the reader will be impressed
with the fecundity of an author who treats with equal fluency of
foods and drinks, appetite and digestion, sport and old age, women
and abbés, and all that appertains to the physiology of gastronomy.
His portrait of a pretty gourmande under arms is a genre painting
worthy of Gérard Douw or Van Mieris, while his Meditation on the end
of the world might have been composed by a doctor of the Sorbonne. The
chapter on digestion is full of practical advice, and from this his
disquisitions on repose, on dreams, and on the influence of diet are
a natural succession. In the chapter on dreams we are told that all
foods which are slightly exciting cause people to dream--such as brown
meat, pigeons, ducks, game, and, above all, hare--the same property
being also recognised in asparagus, celery, truffles, sweetmeats, and
particularly vanilla. Equally suggestive are the essays on corpulence,
leanness, and fasting, and the many racy anecdotes of the "Variétés,"
while his aphorisms must always occupy a place in epicurean literature.
Did Savarin feel a premonition of immediate death when he penned the
verses which he entitled "The Agony--A Physiological Romance," and
which conclude the work that has rendered his name a synonym for all
that appertains to the table and its pleasures?
"I feel through all my senses life's sad end,
My dim eye sees the last few grains of sand
Falling, Louisa weeps, my tender friend,
And places on my breast her trembling hand.
The band of morning-callers troops apace,
Not to return, they bid a last good-bye,
The doctor leaves, the pastor takes his place,
For I must die!
"I fain would pray, my memory is gone;
I fain would speak, my lips can frame no sound;
I hear, though all is still, a singing tone,
And a dull shadow seems to hover round;
All is now cold and dark, my panting breast
Exhausts itself in heaving one poor sigh,
To wander round my lips in frozen rest,
For I must die!"
Numerous translations of the "Physiology" have appeared in various
languages. Of these the most familiar one in English, entitled
"Gastronomy as a Fine Art," is well interpreted as far as it goes.
But many piquant passages are condensed, and portions of chapters
and at least one half of the "Variétés" are omitted altogether. The
most complete rendition is the large octavo volume, with its rather
unsatisfactory illustrations by Lalauze, termed "A Handbook of
Gastronomy," wherein the English reader may commune with the French
writer almost at first hand, and not be obliged to forgo "The Pullet
of Bresse," "The Dish of Eels," "A Day with the Bernardines," and "The
Pheasant"--_à la Sainte-Alliance_.
[Illustration: ALEXANDRE DUMAS
From the etching by Rajon]
[Illustration]
FROM CARÊME TO DUMAS
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account