The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
The better to perfect himself in its various branches, he studied for
ten years under the most distinguished masters, including Robert and
Laguipière. For years, also, he was a daily student at the Imperial
Library and Cabinet of Engravings, perfecting himself in drawing and
in the literature of his profession. He likewise made an exhaustive
study of old Roman cookery, only to arrive at the conclusion that it
was intrinsically bad and abominably heavy (_foncièrement mauvaise et
atrocement lourde_)--an opinion confirmed by the Marquis de Cussy, who
declared that he would rather dine at a Parisian restaurant for twenty
francs than with Lucullus in the saloon of Apollo. It was Carême's
habit to take notes nightly of his progress and the modifications he
had made in his work during the day, thereby fixing those ideas and
combinations that otherwise would have escaped his memory.
Amid the luxurious kitchens of the Empire he reigned supreme--the
king of pastry-cooks and marvellous in his sauces, galantines, and
inventions. Crowned heads soon became his suitors, and princes implored
his services. It was Talleyrand, one of the wittiest and most epicurean
princes of the Empire, who inspired him perhaps with his greatest
enthusiasm, and of whom he says, "M. de Talleyrand understands the
genius of a cook, he respects it, he is the most competent judge of
delicate progress, and _his expenditures are wise and great at the same
time_." Of Laguipière, the chief cook of Murat, to whose talents he
ascribes the elegance and éclat of the culinary art of the nineteenth
century, he is unstinted in his praises. Of Beauvilliers he has little
to say, and although a volume appeared bearing the combined names of
Beauvilliers and Carême, one fancies that the proverbial jealousy of
cooks was not wanting in their case.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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