The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-givingEllwanger, George H. (George Herman)
History
The Pleasures of the Table: An Account of Gastronomy from Ancient Days to Present Times. With a History of Its Literature, Schools, and Most Distinguished Artists; Together With Some Special Recipes, and Views Concerning the Aesthetics of Dinners and Dinner-giving
Ellwanger, George H. (George Herman)
Gastronomy
"All his habits are gross, all his appetites are impure; his stomach
is unbounded and his gluttony unparalleled," say his calumniators.
Yet, in fact, he is no more unclean than most domestic beasts, any
lapses in this respect being due to man and to the evil communications
to which he has been subjected under domestication. The wild hog is
proverbially cleanly, and is almost exclusively a vegetarian. In his
natural state his courage is undaunted. The peccary will challenge
the jaguar, while the wild boar is not unfrequently victorious in his
combats with the tiger himself.
"In this animal," says Beauvilliers, "there is almost nothing to cast
aside." Without him there were, in truth, an aching void and an empty
cuisine,--no lard, no hams, no bacon; no sausages, no spare-rib, no
larded _filets_ and game; no truffles and scientifically blended
_pâtés_; no souse or headcheese; no "Dissertation on Roast Pig";
no chine "with rising bristles roughly spread." His ways are ways
of fatness, and all his paths are progressive. He not only seeks
to instruct, like Virgil; but seeks to please, like Theocritus.
Civilisation radiates from him as light from a prism. With his increase
culture advances, wealth accumulates, and cookery improves. And think
of the services of his ploughshare to the farmer, whose orchards in
many cases would otherwise remain untilled!
His unctuous Lardship! the very fat and marrow of the stock-exchange,
the grease of the commercial wheel. Did he not directly furnish the
inspiration to Dubufe for one of the grandest paintings the world has
produced--the "Return of the Prodigal Son" who shared his husks--to say
nothing of Hogarth and the Scottish poet Hogg, whose ode "To a Skylark"
is scarcely excelled by Shelley's, and whose "Kilmeny" is enduring
among poetic strains? And what were the spirited hunting scenes of
Weenix, Sneyders, and Oudry without the great wild boar?
In the fourth canto of "The Faerie Queene" he is pictured as the symbol
of gluttony:
"And by his side rode loathsome Gluttony,
Deformèd creature on a filthy swine.
His belly was upblown with luxury,
And eke with fatness swollen was his eyne.
Full of diseases was his carcass blew,
And a dry Dropsie through his flesh did flow,
Which by misdiet daily greater grew;
Such one was Gluttony, the second of that crew."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account